Peter,
I’m building a dresser with cherry lumber and cherry plywood. For the finish, I’m getting clear grain and consistent tint with one coat of Minwax cherry stain (oil-based) over a wash coat of clear Zinsser shellac (3-lb. cut straight from the can).
For the topcoat, I want to use Minwax water-based poly. I know the waxed shellac and water-based poly don’t work together, but is the coat of stain in between enough to prevent problems? If not, what else can I use for a topcoat that’s as easy to apply as the water-based poly?
Thanks.
Replies
Using the shellac that is the three pound cut from the can would not be considered a washcoat, but a full sealer coat. A wash coat would be thinner, say in the one pound range, that will allow color to penetrate in a very even fashion.
The way you are using the stain on top of the sealer is essentially "glazing"
If you want to put water based finish on top of this, I would suggest you use SealCoat first to lock everything in. It is dewaxed shellac and you can then finish as you wish.
Next time use the sealcoat for your washcoat as it is compatible with almost every type of finish.
A very easy to use finish besides the water based poly is Waterlox original. It is a thin oil based wiping varnish that is very easy to use and will in my opinion give you a superior finish both in a practical and visual sense.
Be aware it is oil and you need to be careful with spent oily rags.
Good luck.
Peter
I've been intrigued by the natural look of wood and hate all th shine I see on furniture. I'm putting this out and expect a lot of feed back. When you finish wood you get some kind of coating that obscures the wood and detracts from all the detail you build into a good design that incorporates highlights and shadows. Also when the piece is damaged you have to remove the finish, repair the damage and then try to match the finish. I started with a 30% 30% 30% mixture of boiled linseed oil, naptha (turps works well) and Varathane floor varnish. Varathane is an excellent hard floor varnish. I wipe this on and after a short rest period I wipe it off. No brush marks good coverage, etc. It takes about 3 coats. I wanted something with a little faster build up so now I use 50% varnish, 25% boiled linseed oil, and 25% naptha. This can't sit long before you wipe it off so I'm going to add more oil. Also I get a nice build up with only 2 coats, 3 coats is a little to much shine but I hoping the additional oil will solve both problems. But the idea is that you have something to work with that does a great job. If you need to repair it go about your normal routine then simply wipe on another coat. Now I've heard about all the fuss of lacquer and how it melts into the previous layer and is simply great, but the last sentence in any article is that it doesn't provide "enough" protection. Try the above and see for yourself.
4Runner
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