Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 23, 2009 02:47am | #1

   I don't have a lot of experience with get varnish, but what I have hasn't been very positive in terms of durability.  What I would typically recommend for that applcation is an oil based wiping varnish.  You can buy them it that consistency, such as Waterlox, or you can mix your own by thinning your favorite oil based varnish.  Be careful with Satin varieties that you continually mix the materials in the container.  Thinned, the flatting agent that dulls the sheen toward satin, can settle easily, leaving streaks if not careful. 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 24, 2009 03:11am | #2

   I always use a satin finish.. I am not a big fan of gloss on furniture wood. But just me...

   I would suppose there is something like this for the woodworker. I just have not looked.

   In a surplus store I found a glass container, mixing blade and the base unit the had a speed control. Maybe used for mixing solutions in some lab.

   I think it cost me about $30.00.. It even has a heat-plate that I bet would be great for keeping' hot-glue. I do not use it for that.. Shellac.. Yes... The jar is Pyrex? graduated in mL? Is this the correct abbreviation. I am not a Chemist... Maybe ml?

   I often use it when I use Acrylic paint on a project.. Keeps everything 'nice' to work with... And a very smoothie finish. I love Acrylic paint! I love the muted colors. Maybe they have a gloss paint but as stated, I am not a big fan of gloss.. OK, except on a fancy wooden boat from the 1940's..

   The graduations on the glass are nice. I use for  reference when adding alcohol to shellac or distilled water to the paint.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 24, 2009 08:04am | #3

   That's interesting, I haven't seen them in finishing supplies, but the magnetic stirrers must be fairly common in chemical supply places. Sounds neat.   I'm not sure it's really needed (as if half the stuff in the shop is really needed),  I think as long as you are thinking about the issue, and keep a stirring paddle in the container you are working from, you will stir frequently enough to get good results. 

2. 
   GregoryPaolini | Jul 24, 2009 02:41pm | #4

   In any bathroom setting, I won't go less than poly - Just too much water and humidity in bathrooms.  Even better options include conversion varnishes, or even polyester, but were getting into very commercial relms there..

    

   Hope this helps 

   Gregory Paolini

   http://www.GregoryPaolini.com

3. 
   AZMO | Jul 25, 2009 06:33am | #5

   I just finished my vanity as well. I had all the drawers, fronts and doors shot with a conversion varnish by a freind of mine. I am not good with a spray gun.... YET. I just felt that was the best finish for the application.

   AZMO

                     

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   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   roc | Jul 25, 2009 06:57am | #6

   >not good with a spray gun.... YETI can't say I am great with one but one thing I did that was enlightening was to spray thin pigment ( water colors, ink etc ) through the gun onto butcher paper taped flat to a big board.I used a detail gun and air brushes but would probably work well enough for learning purposes through a full size gun.You can see what happens when you move in closer, move fast and slow, why you don't want to swing your arm as if your elbow was skewered by a vertical axis but rather move the gun as if it were on straight rails that are parallel to the work. Also helps you learn what the various adjustable thingamajigs do.Rather than watch the glare on wet clear stuff you can see the fine mist/spots form on the paper.Still don't want to breath the spray even if "just" water colors. Some pigments are poisonous.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   AZMO | Jul 25, 2009 03:14pm | #7

   Thanks Roc, that is a great idea! I was doing pretty good this winter but with temps at 115 in my shop this 'flow' thing of the finish on the wood was not happening. I have been practicing on the backs of drawer bottoms, both mdf and birch ply. Getting there!

   Morgan                  <!----><!----><!---->

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   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   roc | Jul 26, 2009 03:16am | #8

   > temps at 115My limit is the nineties inside the shop. After that it is time to lock the door and go to the mountains. I can't imagine above 100 in the shop and I come from a town where 105 was common during the day. I used to do fifty and one hundred mile bicycle rides at that temp. As a kid I lived in no shirt, a pair of suspenders and bike shorts but some how it isn't a problem with a twenty mile an hour "breeze" even if it is a 105 ° breeze.You are tougher than I am.PS: 115 ° seems like you may be close to some sort of safety limit. I am surprised the product doesn't just come out of the gun on fire like a blow torch.: )rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 7/25/2009 8:18 pm by roc

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 27, 2009 06:43pm | #9

   temps at 115

   Did that at Fort Hood Texas in the sixties. Way back..

   Chicago had 105 with ALOT of Humidity back in the 30's?

2. 
   roc | Jul 28, 2009 04:56am | #10

   >105 . . . LOT of Humidity<I can't even imagine. Here it is usually dry as a bone in that part of the state. The ground is like concrete with talc on it if it is bare.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )