I recently acquired a cherry beam (6x10x72) that I plan to use as a mantle. It has some long check cracks that are up to 1/4″ wide and 24 inches long on one side and smaller cracks on the other ends. I plan to finish it with tung oil prior to mounting it with long lag bolts. Do I need to fill the cracks with anything first? If so what would you recommend? Thanks.
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Replies
Filling the cracks, as long as there is no risk of structural problems, is up to you. Do you want a rustic look, or a more "finished" look? One thing to consider - if this is hanging above a functional fireplace, especially a wood fire, you may experience additional cracking over time.
The beam will move, shrink, expand, etc. with seasonal moisture changes. If you feel the piece is quite dry now (how long since cut? kiln dried? check with a moisture meter?) the large check you have may be the furthest extent of it. But, as moisture comes and goes, it will open and close. I've found filling cherry cracks to be tricky. I've had good success in small cracks with a glue/sawdust mixture. However, since cherry notoriously darkens over time, the dust in the glue will tend to darken the filler more than the surrounding wood darkens. You could also fabricate a small filler piece of cherry, place that in the crack, and then use the dust/glue combo to fill the remaining spots. Tung Oil does a great job finishing cherry. Good luck.
John, it sounds to me like this cherry beam probably contains the pith. If so, I think you're stuck with the rustic look. Even if you used a highly elastic crack filler, the checks will open and close with changes in humidity...and given the fireplace location, the movement will be substantial.
If you want a finished, more formal look, you'd be better off building a box type mantle out of 4/4.
John ,
I am a finish carpenter in colorado and have
built many mantels, every mantel that has been a thick ,8" or thicker tends to check because of the uneven drying. Box beams can and have been done to full evan a critical eye. If you want a more refined look ,resaw your material and either use a lock miter or a rabbit, with some kind of edge detail chamfer etc. Just be sure it's solid behind so if tapped on it sounds solid. Use some constuction adhesive to connect the core to the surface with a little flex.We usually use a product called timber strand for our frame work for trim because it's very stable.
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