I am re finishing a table top and it has some end grain checking that is also along the face of the table top.
How is the best way to fill this? Is it best to stain the wood first then try and put in a putty filler that matches, or maybe try and stuff in some slivers of the same type of wood to help fill the gaps?
I know its hard to make these invisible but i am just looking to minimize the visual impact.
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Replies
It depends very much on the wood and the finish you are using but this has worked for me.
Make up a paste of fine sawdust (from the same wood!), water and PVA glue. Use it as a filler.
You need the water to dilute the glue as otherwise you will use too much. Essentially you want enough glue to bind the sawdust but allow the finish to interact with the wood. Experiment first.
Alternatively if you are going to use a coloured varnish then you can try filling with the best matching plastic wood. After 2 coats the match will be reasonable.
However if you wait a few more hours I am sure that more experienced finishers will chime in!
Just me.. Been there did that.
My first thought was you will never know where a check can go .. AFTER your fix..
After that. IF YOU have patients.. Small wedges are perfect! NO I do not hammer them in.
I cut slivers to fit and 'glue them in with' Shellac.. Ok so I have some really sharp knives to cut the slivers. Please do NOT hammer in a sliver.. Big mistake..
For small repairs, I've always had the best results with Famowood wood filler. It is available in many species of wood, matches great, and takes finishes well. Test it on a scrap piece. It dries out really fast, so keep the lid on it and thin with acetone when needed. Since you are refinishing, you may have to mix different species of Famowood to get an exact color match. It dries lighter in color, so make it darker than you think it should be. Apply it to an area where you can sand it off, as a color test, and let it dry. I've tried sawdust and glue, but it won't take stains or oils.
For large repairs, use a wedge from some scrap stock, and fit as well as you can. Thin down some Famowood, and use it as the glue for the repair. Don't tap it in, as mentioned above. Sand an finish once dry. The repair should be nearly invisible and will take any stain and finish you apply.
No matter which method you use, you need to stop it from splitting again in the future. Install a butterfly repair to the underside in the obvious area. follow the grain, and imagine where the split will go if you forced it. Install at least one more butterfly where the wood still looks stable.
Edited 11/23/2008 11:51 am ET by photonut
Try five-minute epoxy. I goes on milky, but dries clear.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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