I’ve been considering purchasing a chainsaw mill. Has anyone out
there have one and can they offer some recommendations. Can’t remember the names off hand, but PW mag has an add for one that
ranges $85-130. My chainsaw has a 16″ bar, so I will be a little
limited. I don’t envision using it all the time, but there are a
number of logs that I’ve started saving because they have some
interesting grain.
Thanks, Matt
Replies
Chainsaw milling is well worth the time, but is work. You might find a 16" bar a little limiting, and you may also find that a saw that uses a bar that size may be a trifle underpowered for the task, but its worth trying. Alternatively, with a sharp saw, freehand ripping is quite possible but not quite as clean a cut.
The attachment is a mill called "The Beam Machine" made by Grandberg (sp?). I suspect that is similar to the one in your ad. I started out with it cutting yellow cedar on the beaches and got hooked - grain so tight the rings can't even be seen. Got a lot of Big Leaf maple as well, mostly highly figured crotches, root buttresses and figured planks.
Moved on to an Alaska mill when I bought some Garry Oak butt logs at firewood prices; $100.00 for over 1000 B.F of prime,clear wood. I like the Alaska mill best, but there is no point if your saw bar is less than 24" and your saw has the power to drive an 18" rip cut.
Most sources suggest a dedicated rip chain, but I have found you can get away with a skip tooth crosscut. If you don't know how to keep your saw sharp or are not willing to learn don't even consider milling. That is the single most important influence on your success.
I'd say go for it. I just finished a table with the first of the oak I've used, and the satisfaction of using wood I milled is ample reward.
I have a 88cc chain saw with a 36" bar and a rip chain. I square all my logs in the woods and when I get home saw then into board on my bandsaw. I have a Alaskan Sawmill but find it easier to resaw on the bandsaw. Either way you need a good saw, bar and chain in order to have any luck. A smaller saw will burn up to fast if you are doing any amount of ripping.Scott C. Frankland
Was the Newfoundland Wood Worker soon to be the Nova Scotia Wood Worker.
Are you a Mountie yet?
What species, lengths and diameters do you normally deal with?
I'm fortunate enough to be on the shipping lane of all wood that comes south from Alaska and B.C. so any rough weather means good pickings on the beaches. Logs range from boomsticks to 3 and 4 foot diameter. Attachments are three little Post and beam cabins and a communal bathroom I built for a local resort. All the wood used came from the beach, although we Woodmizered it.
No I have two more weeks. I am off for Christmas now and trying to figure out what to do with all the boxes that now line the floors and walls of my shop. My wife took everything I had stored in the shed and put it in my garage. It is so full I cannot even get to my tools let alone make saw dust. A woodmizer would be the best option for making your own lumber. I think that someone makes a bandsaw attachment for a chainsaw. It looks something like a Alaskan sawmill.Scott C. Frankland
Was the Newfoundland Wood Worker soon to be the Nova Scotia Wood Worker.
If you do go this route, you should get a dedicated rip chain for your saw. Also if you have an underpowered saw, you may be able to cut more with a full skip sequence chain.
Jeffrey
campbem,
Check out the mill sold by Logosol. They will send you a free video as well. I don't own the Logosol but believe it is a great tool in many respects. I think you will need a larger chainsaw regardless. I have a Husqvarna with a 36 inch bar and could often use even longer rip capacity.
sawick
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