I’m about to make two Adirondack chairs out of 1.5″ cedar. I want to countersink the screws and cover them with cedar plugs. I’ve never made or used plugs before. I assume I should use a forstner bit to cut the countersink holes. I plan on using #10 woodscrews. What size of forstner bit should I use? After I drill with the forstner bit, do I need to use a standard bit to bevel the bottom of the hole for the woodscrew, or is that unnecessary?
Thanks.
Replies
Scav, what I am saying may not be applicable to you-depends on what is a available to you: I have drill and countersink sets which match the plugs cut with a plug cutter, so you just drill pilot hole and counter sink in one shot, and knock in your matching plug.
But there have been some odd sizes needed so then I just turn tapered plugs on my lathe-the plugs having been made the next size bigger.You can't go wrong like that but it is slow.
If you want to use a Forstner then something in the range 10 to 12mm would suit most screws, but you need a plug cutter to match-and unless it is a type that cuts tapered plugs , you risk a loose fit-hence when it is crucial I prefer to turn the plugs.
I don't think it is neccessary to bevel the hole bottom if you have used a forstner-as long as the screw is well seated and there is enough space for the plug to fit.
If you decide to get one of those sets I suggest you try it out first, using your drill press-obviously it is also advisable to do all the holes before assembling things.
P.S-I have assumed you are to use plugs and not dowels!
Thanks for the reply. I do have a set of tapered plug cutters, but I'm not sure I have a forstner bit small enough for the job. I assume I want the forstner bit to just large enough to allow the #10 screw to fit in.
I have pilot bits (#'s 6, 8, & 10) that drill the countersink hole when I drill the pilot hole. I also have plug cutters in the same sizes.
I use my drill press to make several plugs in scrap wood then glue them into my holes. I make way more plugs than I need and try for a close grain match on each one. When I'm on a roll, the plugs almost disappear.
Since you already have a set of tapered plug cutters, I think getting a set of pilot/countersink bits is the slick and easy way to go. Let me know if you have a band saw, and I will suggest a quick and efficient way to make up your plugs.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Thanks for all the replies. :-)
Yes I do have a bandsaw.
Does anyone have a link to a set of pilot/countersink bits. Lee Valley is my preferred retailer (since I'm in Canada). I'll look myself but I just want to make sure I get the right thing.
Thanks.
My little "trick" is to simply cut your plugs in a straight line on the drill press, apply masking tape across the top of the plugs, and the resaw the board on the bandsaw, releasing the plugs. Since they are tapered, the masking tape will keep them aligned, so you don't have to fumble around trying to figure out which is the tapered end.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Good idea on the masking tape, that would beat chasing them around the floor when they roll of the table. Thanks
Roscoe
I also have the LV countersink with the tapered drill bit and the matching plug cutter. I use gorilla glue for holding the plugs in place. Cut the plug on a drill press and then use a band saw to rip the board to allow the plugs to fall off.
Roscoe
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled