Replies

1. 
   Wateren | Jul 21, 2003 06:32am | #1

   Wanda, I'll take a stab at these.

   l. Yes, Part C is cut at a 4° angle. It took a while to find but this is shown in one of the blowup details in the lower-right corner. I would hand-plane it but you could cut it with a tablesaw, bandsaw, circular saw or (if careful and determined) a jigsaw.

   2. You can cut the 20° bevel on Part B any of the same ways as above. They are showing a tablesaw for this (Photo 3).

   3. I agree about the seat slats. It makes so little sense to call Part J a 'hinge block' that I think I must be missing something - there aren't any hinges in this plan. Maybe they bought it in the lumber store as 'hinge block'. Possibly the plan was cribbed from another plan the name carried over. I notice the fifth 'Part J' is different from the other four.

   As for the dimensions, it looks sized so that you could use dimensioned lumber (though it looks as though they are not doing so), nominal 4" for the slats, nominal 5" for the stretcher. I doubt there is any magic in the numbers, if you want thinner slats and more of them, go for it. Possible downsides are more fasteners, more flexing when getting in or out of the seat. With rounded corners the wide stretchers probably comfortable enough. Part C doesn't seem too wide, it has to support the seat back slats both vertically and horizontally, as well as resisting the leverage of the back legs.

   My feeling is 3/4 spruce might be too springy, and not as strong holding the screws coming into the edges of the wood. You can buy 5/4 cedar, used for decks, which is just about 1-1/16" true thickness (by a happy coincidence). Again, don't bother planering it: the exact dimension - who cares? No one is likely to look for that sixteenth of an inch on a deck chair unless you tempt them into it by doing a superb job of construction and fit. Spruce probably more prone to rot, giving you a shorter-lived chair even if you paint diligently. Cedar is good this way.

   Hope this helps.

   Cheers, Chris.

1. 
   wendy | Jul 21, 2003 04:45pm | #2

   Hi Chris,

   Thanks for answering my  many questions. I have gone ahead and cut out the pattern for the chair leg. I want to make sure it's accurrate before I trace it onto the blanks. I've never used the table saw for cutting bevels before so that should be challenging. I'll just practice on some scraps till I get it right.

   Yup, the Last seat slat is different. It's planed (rounded) to allow water to drain away. . Oh well you learn something every day.  This chair certainly requires a  lot more cutting than the other 2 Adirondack chairs  I've built.

   I'm just worried that when I go to attach the rear leg to the front (part b) that they won't fit properly. I just pray they are in allignment. 

   Thanks again for your input Chris.

   Wanda

2. 
   wendy | Jul 21, 2003 07:55pm | #3

   Hello Chris,

   I wasn't anticipating having any problems tracing out the rest of the pattern for the REar leg. I'm just wondering where to begin to mark the 26 degree angle. The 4 1/2 marking on the diagram is there for a reason obviously. But if I measure up 4.5 inches from the bottom of my grid and go over 29 1/4 inches (17 1/2  + 11 7/8) and then begin marking the 26º angle (making sure I get a measurement of 4 3/4 inches  then measure 1 1/4 inches down from there and then finally mark the 20 º angle on the bottom making sure that it measures 3 1/2 iches...... You'll see all those numbers and angles on the right side of the diagram... REAR LEG  It just doesn't look right when I mark the angles starting at 4 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the grid. If I go over 29 1/4 inches and start from the top (width= 5 inches) and begin marking the 26º degree angle from there working my way down to the bottom it looks fine. But like I said the diagram shows 4 1/2 inches for a reason. I can't ignore that. So something isn't right. I guess I need one of those pull out patterns. LOL

   I've considered taking the pattern I have cut down to my local hardware store but I doubt they'd be able to help me. I need an experienced woodworker. Someone who is familiar with drawing out patterns. It's not very easy to explain the problem I'm having with this plan. Would be great if I had someone to show me.

   Anyways I thought you might be able to straighten me out. Or else I'll have to choose a different chair design.

   Wanda

1. 
   Wateren | Jul 23, 2003 06:30am | #9

   Hello. Sorry, I must have mis-apprehended the question, I was talking about the 4° slope on the edge of Part C.

   Sounds like you have worked it out, but for completeness, here's a detailed blather:

   Looking at Part A (rear leg), it looks like the best way to go is to use the top-left corner as the datum point, and starting with a piece 5" wide by something more than 33-7/8" long (leave some extra).

   The top edge tapers down from 5" wide to 4½" wide over the 11-7/8" distance. (It's not important, but I will assume the 11-7/8 is measured along the edge of the piece (as is consistent with other dimensions on this detail) rather than being measured parallel to the bottom (as would be most helpful to someone making the part); a quick calc shows this angle to be 2.4° either way).

   It is not clear from the diagram, but it looks as though the slope indicated is 26° relative to the sloping top edge, not relative to the bottom. (This would make it a 28.4° angle to the bottom edge)

   For comfort sake, the only really important dimension on that back pointy shape of the rear leg is the 20° angle, as this is where the cedar meets the road, as it were. What this means is, get the rest of the leg right and fudge the tail-end of it. The other dimensions (the 26° angle, the 4-3/4", the 1¼", the 3½") aren't critical. They are low priority; the most important of them is probably the 3½" length of the contact patch. Making a scale cutout from cardboard could help.

   Philosophical bit: Any time you make a piece of wood or something physical, you need a 'degree of freedom' that will take up the tolerances from your cuts and measurements. Because the diagram here dimensions every edge length and some angles, the degree of freedom is not there and you are constrained. The diagram is poor in this respect. You only get what they show if your starting point, measurements, angles, cuts, etc. are all exact, which is never so.

   Just looking it over, it might be a style improvement to cut a rounded shape instead of the sharp corners on the back of the back leg, leaving the contact patch flat. The rounded ness would match the arms and the seat back slats.

   Cheers, Chris.

1. 
   wendy | Jul 27, 2003 02:23am | #10

   Hi Chris,

   Thanks for your input. I have the rear leg pattern cut out and am just about finished drawing out the rest of the parts. I just hope everything more or less falls in place when I go to assemble the chair.  :)

   Wanda

2. 
   wendy | Jul 28, 2003 04:07am | #11

   Hi Chris,

   One more question for you. This may sound like an ignorant question but I'll ask it anyways. I've just about finished cutting out all the templates for the Adirondack chair. I have the arm pattern left to cut out. What I'm wondering is how to cut a curved edge on the front and back of each slat plus the other exposed areas as labelled on the diagram. I don't have much experience using a router. The instructions for the chair say to use a 5/16th inch radius rounding-over bit in the router to cut the curves edges on the slats and other exposed areas.

   The router bit I have might be too big I'm not sure. Here are the bits dimensions. The bit I have is also a piloted bit. It's a Delta teflon coated, anti-kickback carbide tip router bit.  I have 2 books on routers but they were not helpful. Just wish I had someone to show me how to use the Porter Cable router I have. I've only used it to cut dadoes.

   Cutting diameter      1 inch

   Cutting length(depth)  1/2 inch

   radius                          1/4 inch

   One more question......... Just checking.... When marking the 2 3/4 radius for the ARM(Part F in the diagram) I take it I have to find the centre point (which is 1/2 of 5.5 inches) and come in 2 3/4 from the edge. That's the point where I Place my  compass to mark the curve right? Not sure how to mark the other  3 1/2 inch radius at the end of the arm.  Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    

   Wanda

    

    

    

   Edited 7/27/2003 9:16:00 PM ET by wanda200b

1. 
   Wateren | Jul 29, 2003 07:25am | #12

   Wanda:

   You're right about how to find the centrepoint of the circles. A helpful trick is to cut out a circle (or portion of circle) from cardboard of 2-3/4" radius (3½" for the arm), then starting with the centre close to where it should be, fit the curve of the circle to meet smoothly with the straight edge of the piece. Then you can trace with pencil around the cardboard. This is not a big deal and doesn't really save any work but can help place the circle visually.

   As far as your router bit, sounds like a ¼" roundover bit, slightly different from what is given in the drawing but should be fine. You can use it either freehand with the boards clamped down, or with the router in a table. When you run the pilot along the edge of the workpiece it will follow every imperfection in the edge, so dips and bumps are magnified. The depth of cut is what will make the roundover meet flush with the flat sides of the board without cutting an edge. Some sanding probably needed to smooth it out either way. If you really want the 5/16" roundover radius you'll need another bit. If the bit doesn't ride on a bearing, there will be some burning along the edges from friction, you can make it less by keeping the router moving and not pressing hard against the edge, but practice makes the difference. I think having someone show you is the best way to learn. Have you checked the Taunton site for video clips? There may be some, if you can stand the download time.

   Sounds like you're ready to go, you have all your own answers - now grab that confidence and go. But be careful with the router, it can be a hurtful beast.

   Cheers, Chris.

2. 
   wendy | Aug 03, 2003 03:44am | #13

   HELP Neeed!

   Hi Chris,

   I need some tutoring. LOL  I am just about to start building the andirondack chair. Just reading over the instructions before I begin to cut the boards to width. I've run into a problem. Part B (RAIL) ... where the rear leg attaches.... The instructions say to cut the beveled edges at a 20º degree angle. I have an inkling as to how to set up the blade on the table saw. making sure to keep the blade away from the fence. But my question is ....  (how far from the blade do I start my cut????   I know I have to rip The board to 5" 3/8ths inche wide before beveling it on the table saw.  After all the bevelled edges have to join perfectly with the rear leg.

   When it comes to cutting beveled edges on a table saw the fence is usually on the left side of the table rather than the right side. If I position the blade away from the fence is it ok to stand behind the motor? That way the waste will be on the left side. I Can't see any other way of cutting the board.  Usually you stand behind the bar that the fence rides on when you want to rip a piece of lumber with the waste on your left side. They also suggest you use a featherboard. Is that absolutely necessary? If so I will have to buy one of those gadgets. I want to avoid any possible kickback.

   I'd sure appreciate it if you could give me some advice/tips on how to cut bevels using a table saw. If I'm not mistaken the instructions for this chair requires you to cut (2) bevelled edges on the same board. (Part B.. front rail. 

   helpppppppppppppp!

   Wanda

2. 
   BHerman | Jul 22, 2003 11:19pm | #4

   Can't say that I can help you interpret this specific set of plans any better than the others have, but wanted to give you my 2 cents worth, based on my experience. I have built 6 chairs like this for use around my place, built all of them out of 1" cedar (actually more like 7/8" after I plane it) that I get at a local supply store called (surprise, surprise) Cedar Supply. They sell all types of decking material. I don't think that getting the exact curve right is that critical - as long as both sides match and it looks ok. What I do is use a template (either poster board or 1/8" hardboard) to make sure that the parts match each other. Cedar is the best material that I've found for these chairs. If you have any questions, feel free to let me know.

1. 
   wendy | Jul 23, 2003 12:49am | #5

   Hi,

   I should check around and see if any of the local supply stores around where I live carry cedar decking.

   With regards to the adirondack chair.  When it comes to the REAR LEG...... what happens if the angles on the rear of the leg aren't exact won't that effect the way the front leg attaches to the rail (PART B) The rear leg has to sit flush on the ground. I'm pretty sure the curve I drew out is good enough. The rest of the pattern is easy enough to understand. I doubt I'll have problems drawing patterns out for the other chair parts.

   Wanda

   Wanda

1. 
   BHerman | Jul 23, 2003 12:57am | #6

   You are right, it will affect the angle where the leg attaches to the front rail, but its more of a function of attaching it together at the right angle. What I 'd suggest is to just drill one of the mounting holes that attach the leg to the front rail - get it in the right position (i.e., leg on the ground in the rear, front rail straight - use a level), then clamp it together and drill the other hole and secure it in position.

   I am able to get the 1x cedar in 2" all the way up to 12" widths (I use 1x10 for the armrests).

1. 
   wendy | Jul 23, 2003 03:39am | #7

   Hello,

   Hmmmmm. 1X 10 inch boards for the arms. WOW. That's ok if your arms are 5 inches wide. But the arms for this chair are 5 1/2 inches wide. Not that 1/2 an inch is going to make a difference. probably be cheaper and far less wastage if I made the cut the arms to 5 inches rather than 5 1/2 inches.  Are  wider boards  more likely to warp?

   I'll have to get 2 scraps of spruce and trace out my pattern for the front rail and rear leg on that and see how they fit together. Hopefully things will work out ok.

   Wanda

3. 
   jgaiennie | Jul 23, 2003 05:41am | #8

   Wanda,

   I'll just step out here -

   Seems to me you've got a confidence issue that's not founded in real sound concerns.  I encourage you to look at the intent of the drawing and cut the wood to the best of  your ability and interpretation.  Do some mock ups with a few clamps to check your fit up.  Expect to make a few mistakes.  And expect to finally succeed.  Complete one chair assembly, check it out, and then make a few adjustments as necessary, sanding here, trimming there, making it sit well on the floor and fitting your body.  Then cut and assemble your other chairs once you've gained the experience of the first.  I think you'll find it amazing how much insight that your assembly of the first chair will give you as to the answer to your questions.  Also, while I encourage you to be as accurate as you can, I think you'll find these chairs to be a little forgiving for the less experienced woodworker.

   Unless you've got access to several woodworking tools, it seems to me that all the straight cuts on this chair could be done with virtually any saw you've got.  Rips are easiest on a table saw but can be done other ways.  Cross cuts could be done with a table saw, skil saw, or even a hand saw.  I think with a skil saw and a saber saw, you could cut this thing out beautifully, only sanding (substaintially) to finish edges, and well within the tollerances required by this design.

   good evening and good luck.

   jdg