Replies

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 16, 2005 11:53pm | #1

   Two things. You might consider posting in "Breaktime" that is where many FHB readers hang out. Also please DONT USE ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. It is the equivalent of shouting in text.

   Good luck,
   Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   btrouble | Mar 17, 2005 12:24am | #2

   :)  I tried to tell my wife that a few years ago when she emailed my son's baseball coach about some things that the parents were unhappy about. She couldn't figure out why she got such a brutal email reply. I looked at it, laughed(before I thought better!) and explained that capitalizing everything is like screaming face to face.

2. 
   SlimShaving | Mar 17, 2005 02:23am | #3

   If you can't find the article or don't get anyhelp at breaktime I can tell you what I know. For one thing you'll need to use some kind of plynthe block in the corners rather than miters

   Life: The ultimate video game, and your the target
3. 
   Yersmay | Mar 17, 2005 03:46am | #4

   Here's a website. Hope it helps!

   http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/cathedral-crown.htm

4. 
   DDay | Mar 17, 2005 04:47am | #5

   I looked but didn't see the article.  It was in was the most recent FHB's and I believe it was from Gary Katz, so I think it is probably just a condensed version of the one on Gary's website.  You don't need the plinth, you just need to figure the angles and make that transition piece.

5. 
   ownerbuilder | Mar 17, 2005 02:29pm | #6

   Actually, you can miter the corners, it just takes an extra wedge-shaped piece where it turns up- or downhill.

   Home Depot sells a pretty good book, I can't remember the name of it but it's a blue and white paperback.  I used it to do my first cathedral ceiling, and I've done another one since...turned out pretty well.

   Good luck!

1. 
   Dave45 | Mar 17, 2005 03:57pm | #7

   Go to http://www.compoundmiter.com and look for their book on Crown Molding. It tells you everything you'll need to know - and more.  Home Depot also sells the book and it's worth every penny. 

   When you get it, spend a couple of hours reading it very carefully and practicing on some inexpensive molding before you tackle the "good stuff". - lol

6. 
   TimLoupe | Mar 17, 2005 04:12pm | #8

   Donald,

   I do alot of crown molding on sloped ceilings, The thing to remember is the ceiling is the only plane to be concerned with. The other important part is you have to  joint or rip a steeper angle on the back bottom and top of the crown itself because as you tip the crown from its normal relation to a plumb wall the crown starts rocking off the extra material on the back. If you get a piece of crown and start tipping it you'll see what I mean.you will have to determin how steep of an angle you need on the back of the crown by how steep your roof pitch is .Also we have been putting our crown up pre assembled , no copes ,just miters and screwed together from the back . You will have to get close on your miter angles , we use the Bosch angle finder , almost like cheating, but we need as much help as we can get considering the framing these days!One other thing ,figure out how far your crown will come down the wall ,in its typical relation to a plumb wall level ceiling,and make a block this same dimension so that you can mark where the bottom of the crown is acually going to hit it gives you a much more accurate measurement.Hopes this makes sense I started to ramble a bit like an old Dodge tryin to start!

   Tim

7. 
   mike4244 | Mar 18, 2005 02:14am | #9

   Install the level piece as usual. Miter the corner same as if there was no adjoining slope. Make the mitered return on a short length of crown. Lay crown flat on saw table, cut a 22 1/2° angle from this piece. You will have a small wedgelike piece, 45° on one side and a flat cut 22 1/2° on the other. Glue this piece to the first piece you installed. Now lay the rake piece of crown flat on the saw table and cut a matching 22 1/2°. Install this piece on the raked ceiling.

   mike