Replies

1. 
   ring | Dec 01, 2006 12:24pm | #1

   Cabby, there is no right answer. Depends on what the specific situation is. The dado makes sense for instance in places where you need to safely transfer weight to the sides. But there are plenty of carcase applications where the box is just "sitting there" and holding itself together, and the dados are just superfluous. You've got to analyze the stresses that are involved in your particular project and then make a decision.

   DR

2. 
   smslaw | Dec 01, 2006 04:13pm | #2

   I am a rank amateur who just built his first set of kitchen cabinets.  I used dadoes and rabbets to join the case pieces primarily because it seemed easier to keep the pieces lined up while gluing and clamping.  I used mostly 3/4 plywood.  Pocket screwing two big pieces together is difficult without having something slip out of alignment. 

3. 
   Ocotillo_Mike | Dec 01, 2006 05:56pm | #3

   I use pocket screws for plywood side cabinets that are going to be set in place and not moved. Saves time. With a little practice and a 4x4 table to work on I can square up most cabinets without problems. But a tall cabinet can be a problem because my clamps are not long enough. The key is always practice. Mistakes lead to solutions. I have used pocket screws to build doors and drawers and face frames. Dadoes should be used when you are making furniture that will be moved. I don't know where the trade-off would be regarding the stress of potential racking when a cabinet is moved. But I'm sure you could make a strong furniture cabinet with pocket screws with the right reinforcement. However, you have to plan to hide the screws and by the time you figure out how to do that and add the reinforcement to prevent racking you might as well use dadoes. As a rule I only use pocket screws if I am using plywood carcases. Hope this helps

4. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 01, 2006 06:00pm | #4

   A dado and rabbet will help hide the edge of the plywood board, making the joint look better, and will definately improve the strength of the carcass.  Also, during assembly, having these registering points will help with alignment, and squaring of the carcass.

   Jeff

5. 
   oldusty | Dec 01, 2006 06:26pm | #5

   cabbYman ,

                   Personally I dado all my finished ends , but typically not partition walls . As has been stated the dado can make assembly easier , no lines to draw and in most cases is stronger in more directions.

        Imo you could never go wrong with using a dado joint in case work . The answer depends on the application of the type work you are talking about , there can never only be one correct answer to most questions .

         We all have our favorite or easiest or best way of doing the same thing . What works for you best and offers structural integrity and is aesthetically pleasing is more important than the way others may approach the same task .

     With a dado you can glue and clamp and not use any fasteners if you want , the strength in most applications comes from the glue not the fasteners.

     We learned in theory once the glue has dried you can remove the fasteners and loose no strength , the fasteners simply hold the parts in place until the glue dries .

          I do use pocket screws on my face frames but not generally on box parts , a butt joint with pocket screws imo has less strength then nailing or fastening through the other side or setting it in a dado .

     Invest in a lot of clamps , good ones last a lifetime

                 dusty

6. 
   mudman | Dec 01, 2006 07:54pm | #6

   As others said over all your carcase joinery hass little effect on the quality of the final product. Even the crappiest cabinets from home depot dont fall apart. Finish nails and glue are by far the most common in my area. If the back is captured or at least glued and the face frame is well made the box will be solid.

   I use full dado construction. In the past I did it because I believd that it was superior, now I do it because it is faster, for me. By myself it is hard to assemble a but jointed carcase, get it square, get the edges flush, get the clamps on, and sink pocket screws or nails all before the glue gets tacky. With dado construction the assembly is a lot faster. All the parts line up automaticly. All I have to do is make sure the box is square, and I rely on the back for that. By forcing the back down and to one side it forces the box sqaure, assuming the back is square.

   For me the time lost cutting the dados is made up by the time saved in assemble, not to mention the frustration. But I am pretty fast setting up the dados. I also use a 24" cross cut radial arm saw for most of the Dados, which is faster.

   If you are only making one or two simple cabinets then it is probably not worth the time to set up for the dados. But if you are processing the panels for a whole kitchen then you save time and agrevation with dado joinery.

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   cabbYman | Dec 01, 2006 09:29pm | #7

   I'm new to the discussion concept, so not sure to respond to all of you.

    

   This is great, this is the kind of ionformation that really helps me work through the right approach. Based on the information presented, I think I will go with the butt joints, using spacer bars to help with alignment issues, and a purpose built clamping station to hold things tight.

   Thanks All!

7. 
   cmiller231 | Dec 02, 2006 04:19am | #8

   To Begin with i'am no expert by any means .With that said i'll try to explain how i'am building a 4 ft. high   x  54" wide dresser currently half done .. My goals are to reduce weight but keep it strong .I built one similar to this one last yr. , it went ok till glue up. I used the plywood  back to sq. it up but it racked    in another direction. Any way on the current one i've dovetailed  the four courners of the face frame  . this has kept it real close to sq  during trail fit ups . All the inner joints of the face frame are loose mortise and tenon.  I decided to use 1/2" oak plywood  for  the sides to save weight . ( I hate building heavy boat anchors)  The 1/2" plywood sides are dadoed to the front and rear legs. The front legs are loose mortised and tenoned to the face frame. There are  two  a 3/4" x 4" boards that  span the back side and are  loose M&T  to the rear legs . A vertical board   that is loose m&t  connects the top and bottom board.Dovetailed ed  drawer supports connect front face frame  to back . This keeps the face frame from  bowing out .

       I hope the above was some what clear , just trying to give  some ideas. As far as pocket screws go ,   i have no opion as i have never used them.  I like dados as they are fast and everything sqs up.The loose tenons on this project have worked out fine. I'am doing them on a horiztional router.                  Chris