Recently I did an oak bookcase for a customer. They wanted it to look like the hardwood oak floor that they just had refinished. The guy that did the floor used Minwax Poly. I always spray WB products since I don’t have a fireproof booth and don’t use oil. One thing that I could not do is get the WB to look like the oil, so I ended up having to brush on Minwax oil.
Is there any way to get a WB product to look like oil? I know the oil seeps in to the wood and WB tends to sit on top.
Replies
Oil first, then top coat with waterbased.
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I agree fully!
I use MinWax oil all the time and not that offensive with good air flow. Flashes off with good air flow outside very quickly.
Chris''s method will work, but you will have to be sure the oil based product dries well before overcoating.
The biggest cause of different appearance of the WB comes from the different color. Adding a bit of dye, typically in an amber color, will give much of the the appearance of an oil based finish. TranTint is one choice for this. Doesn't need much for this application.
Thank you for the responses. Waiting for the oil to dry is very time consuming and not always guaranteed that the WB would adhere to it.
It is more than just the color though. The grain pops a lot more with oil than with WB. Is there a way to get WB to make the grain pop more.
Use some blonde shellac to "pop" the grain.Then topcoat with your finish.F.
Floss is right that shellac will work. (It should be dewaxed and shellac with more color will "pop" grain more.) It will give a closer, but still not exact approximation of the oil. You can assure adhesion of the waterborne over oil (oil/varnish) with a coat of dewaxed shellac. But that doesn't solve much of the time to cure problem. No free lunch anywhere, darn.
Kaleo,
Are you the Kaleo who studied woodworking in Australia and hung around Knots a few years ago?
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Kaleo,
Have you tried Targets' EM8000cv? It's a water borne conversion varnish that looks identical to a regular oil varnish. Although I usually use linseed oil topped with shellac on fine furniture, on commercial stuff I will use Target WBs.
Give Target WR Clear Base followed by EM8000cv a try, I think you will like what you see!
Here is some walnut with WR Clear Base #linseed oil in a water borne emulsion# topped with EM8000cv.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
WB poly can be tinted, with an ocre or a brown tint to mimic the colour of existing solvent based finishes. It's a bit of an experiment thing to get it close, so don't gaurantee an exact match.
I've used this to match finishes on existing cabinets and builtins.Tint on the light side, so you can build the colour. First coat is lightly tinted, as it generall needs sanding, and you don't want the wood sucking up a coloured finish unconrollably.
I generally get a few ounces of tinting colour from my paint supplier and do it on my own, cause they cannot seem to find the time to match the colour, although my laquer supplier can.
I've just started using WB laquers, so maybe they will fill the need with more expertise than I have.
Eric
in Calgary
You might make some experiments now that the immediate job is done, to see what you might try in the future.
Target sells a water emulsified linseed oil, I didn't think it gave quite the depth of regular linseed oil. I think General Finishes also sells a water-borne oil sealer (Seal A Cell?) but I have no experience. You might try each, along with some regular linseed oil, on scrap and compare. Target also sells a water emulsified dewaxed shellac that can be sprayed as a sealer over their water emulsified oil or regular linseed oil (if applied very thinly, 24 hours may be adequate drying time).
I admire Target for continuing to try new things, but I didn't find their water borne linseed oil to provide the depth of regular BLO.
Just my two cents. Let us know the results of your trials, please.
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