Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Feb 22, 2000 07:59pm | #1

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   I'm afraid the various components will be incompatible if you are talkng about cellulose or pre-catalysed lacquer type polishes. ML Campbell sell a spray on pre-cat that they describe as 'rubbed effect' but it just looks matte to me, like their dull.

   The most common components for oil/varnish mixes seem to be tung oil, linseed oil, polyurethane varnish, alkyd varnish, white or US mineral spirit, and naptha. I might have missed a few. Many of these components make up propriatory(sp?) varnishes anyway, so you know they are compatible.

   You might try applying 'tung oil finish' straight out of the can for the first two or three coats. Tung oil finish is manufacturer's code for tung oil cut with varnish, then use your home mix after a bit of a film has developed.

   It's going to be hard not to darken beech a little with any finish, and oil based finishes do tend to darken the timber more at the outset. Even using film finishes that are designed to change the colour as little as possible will eventually fail, because time, ultra violet light, etc., will take their toll and darken light timbers, and conversely lighten dark timbers so that they all end up a shade of brown.

   I've seen early work of mine, for example, where the sycamore drawer sides are almost as white as the day they were installed, but the exposed sycamore back panel is now a dark honey colour. One particular piece I'm thinking of was polished with pre-cat lacquer about twenty years ago.

1. 
   Michael_Richwine | Feb 22, 2000 09:33pm | #2

   *You might want to consider French polishing or just padding on a few coats of Super Blonde shellac. I don't know how it performs on beech, but it darkened walnut less than any other finish I have tested. After it has cured, give it a quick sanding & rub out with rubbing (not polishing) compound for a dull satin finish with a wonderful feel. I daresay it will protect the wood better than many "oil" finishes, too. Shellac is surprisingly durable if you make it up fresh and pad or french polish it on, and it feels great.Another alternative is water white, non yellowing lacquer such as acrylic or CAB, or a combination like M L Campbell's Klearplast. Thin about 50% (contrary to my usual practice) put on a coat of water white sealer and two top coats, rub out as above after curing for a week, and wax, and you'll get a finish that closely resembles an "oil" finish with good durability. Watch out for sand-throughs.Try these on some scrap & see if they work for you.

1. 
   Ng_Chee_Beng | Feb 23, 2000 05:05am | #3

   *Thank you all for the kind advise. I'll try padding on Super Blonde seedlac and also a mixture of tung oil/blonde seedlac/turp and let you guys know how it turn out.Thanks once againNg Chee Beng