Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 30, 2008 03:23am | #1

   Generally, you do the face frame, attach it to the cabinet and allow the piece that fits against the wall to be a bit wider for scribing. Often the backside of that piece is rabbeted so you only have to scribe 1/4" - 3/8" thick material. It's a common technique with commercial cabinetry. There are also times when the end piece is sent loose, particularly on large cabinets that can't be easily put in place and taken down to work on. This isn't the best with a finished cabinet, which most are, but doable.

   When I need to scribe, I like to first set the cabinet level and plumb. I have allowed an amount of extra on the scribe trim. Typically the scribed trim will still be proud of the side of the cabinet about 1/4". This allows you some cutting room and keeps the back from hitting the corner first and not being able to get the face frame tight. Out of square corners may need a little extra scribe on the face of the cabinet.

   I just cut a very small block to the size I need to remove and use that to guide my pencil. Unlike using dividers, you don't have to worry about twisting the dividers or holding them perpendicular. To cut to the line, I use a jigsaw, hand saw or coping saw. A low angle block plane can finish off most cuts to the line. A belt sander can come in handy as well as a sharp rasp or sanding block. Scribing to rock or brick is more difficult than a bumpy wall. I'll use anything necessary in my arsenal, depending on the intricacy of the cut. You can undercut the scribe a little so the face will make clean contact.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   ring | Dec 30, 2008 09:50am | #2

   I'll give you 2 different ways that we treat the problem, depending on the look you prefer to get in the end. Either way we build the cabinet with all the face frame members before it leaves the shop.

   1. The frame piece that needs to fit to the wall gets a back 45° bevel ripped along the whole length. This is like the idea of the rabbet that Hammer mentioned but even more so. The piece actually contacts the wall along a pointed edge only. Makes planing to the scribe line a cinch.

   2. We move the entire cabinet some 3/8" away from the wall. The face frame piece that touches the wall extends beyond the cabinets walls, so that at installation you can attach an additional strip behind it which has been fitted to the wall. You then get a cabinet whose frame members remain their integrity, and a recessed closure (recessed 3/4" which is the thickness of the face frame) which takes up the variances of the wall.
   I hope this is clear...a photo would help but I don't have one.

   I prefer this 2nd system if the walls are really a mess. It separates the mess from the cabinet itself.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

3. 
   Dunwright | Jan 02, 2009 02:57am | #3

   I have an illustrated Word document that should make the process clear. Since it weighs over 2.7 MB, I do not want to burden the list. Send me an e-mail request and I will send it to your address.

   Roger
   [email protected]

   Arlington, Texas (The dash in Dallas-Fort Worth)
   Practice...'till you can do it right the first time.
4. 
   oldusty | Jan 02, 2009 06:57pm | #4

      Corrib ,

                Some of your answer depends on the exact application , wall to wall , cabinet to wall Floor to ceiling or a tight fit or whatever else .

      On most typical say kitchen wall cabinets or any cabinet edge that butts to a wall I leave a scribe wall end with at least 1/2" space from the edge of the face more will not hurt if you have the room 3/4" is pretty safe .

      2 options , if it is a tight fitting application by the time you scribe the wall end to fit it may be too narrow unless you allowed for the scribe by making the face wider then the space it fits into .

      You want the face as part of the cabinet , but if you have the chance and desire you could make the face wider and make it fit before you attach it to the cabinet in this case .

      Whether you angle off the back side or cut a rabbet on the wall end after scribing there is still a space on the wall side of the stile . Depending on the style I almost always supply and use when needed a scribe molding that is usually about 3/4" X 1/4" detailed to suit the job .On a wall to wall fit I will drop   about 1/4 " from the width and not fight it especially on floor to ceiling cabinets .

       The look is common to have a small scribe mold on wall ends , if you put it on all of them it looks deliberate .

         regards           dusty , boxmaker