Hi, my name is David and I’m new here, and new to woodworking. Best addiction I ever had. Some background on my project. A neighbor just up and gave me her great grandmother’s 3-piece bedroom suite from the 1920s. It’s has never been refinisned as far as I can tell and is in pretty bad shape. I believe it was stored outside in a humid climate for some time. It’s now in my garage and I’ve been reading and experimenting with removing the shellac finish. It has curly maple appliques and I’m pretty sure the veneer is walnut. I know it’s veneer (I’d say 1/8-inch) because its peeling away in places from the solid wood core. The turnings and legs may be cherry or maple, not pine, oak or walnut.
I’ve been using denatured alcohol and an assortment of Scotch bright pads to take the shellac off the flat areas and on some of the turnings and corners. I’ve been using a Bahco Carbide Scraper #625 in other tight areas and I like the way it works. I thought a card scraper may be a good tool to better remove the shellac from the larger flat areas and to smooth them up. I searched for card scraper information and now I’m totally confused. It seems there are thick ones, and thin ones, and hard ones and harder ones. I did a complete search on Knots and while there are a few discussions, I didn’t see any recommendations on what scrapers to use for refinishing furniture, especially veneer. I have found several brands out there to choose from. Rocklers, Lee Valley, Woodcraft, etc, all carry a brand or two. Being a complete neophyte at this, and not wanting to screw this up to bad, I’d appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction. Some seasoned advice on which card scraper or selection of scrapers may work for my situation would be very helpful. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Thanks
Replies
HA! I like the name! We all are still figuring it out!
Well, I'm sure opinions will vary, but really to start out, the best thing to do is buy the basic three pack card scraper kit you see at places like Woodcraft. The different thicknesses and hardness all have purposes, but for a good all around card scraper you only need steel that's around 3/32" thick and for it to be rectangular or whatever shape you want. So the basic three pack you see in the catalogs will be just fine for what you're wanting.
And yes, with old shellac, scraping the last bit off before sanding is a good method. No harsh chemicals. You're on the right track my friend. A word, though. When you get the scrapers take time to practice sharpening them. It's tricky at first but repetition is key. Just sayin' so you won't get too frustrated!!
Hope this helps.
Fine Furniture and Antique Restoration
Technically, you should avoid using sandpaper or metal scrapers when refinishing. The original maker already did all the sanding. It's just going to take time and patience if you are stripping with alcohol. A toothbrush and plenty of rags works without causing harm. Alcohol thins the shellac but you need to quickly blot it off in small sections or you'll just be spreading it around. A sharp card scraper will remove wood as well as finish.
I think the Bahco/Sandvik 474 card scrapers are as good as any, you'll need an 8" mill bastard file and a burnisher, some also use stones. Next is learning how to sharpen and turn the burr. You have to be careful with metal scrapers. It's easy to do some damage.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
still,
Before you get into this too far it sounds from your post that you're not really that sure of what material these pieces are made of. Also, they could in fact be quite valuable due to their age Have you checked out these thoroughly before removing all the finish?
I would suggest that you post some pics befor you go too far. There are some very knowledgeable folks in here you might want to check with first. Better to be safe than sorry.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 7/31/2008 12:43 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
David,
When dealing with furniture repair, the first step should be to assess how comprehensive the repair job will be. If only refinishing is needed, you should atleast consider using only chemical strippers (denatured alcohol included) as opposed to scrapers and abrasives. Over time, wood takes on a patina. Removing any wood removes the patina.
Generally thick scrapers are for heavier stock removal and thinner scrapers are for lighter work. Thinner scrapers also bend easier and are therefore easier to get into concave areas. I'd recommend a variety pack of 3 or 4 rectangular card scrapers. Also learn how to resharpen them. You'll need a burnisher, which is a piece of metal harder than the scrapers. A polished burnisher results in a smoother hook, which does the cutting. I put a hook on all but my finest scraper. The scraper is one of the most unsung tools in woodworking, in my opinion.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
You're probably well on your way to ruining the thing if you continue to use a scraper.
A chemical isn't close to being as "harsh" as a scraper in a beginner's hands. You'll realize how badly you've F'd the whole thing up most likely before the new finish goes on but most certainly afterward. It ain't gonna be good, dawg.
Edited 8/4/2008 7:43 am ET by PanBroil
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