Replies

1. 
   BG | May 25, 2004 02:03am | #1

   Jackhall,

   Just to throw in my 2 cents...the key difference is the attachment of the saw arbor and trunnions; in the contractor saw they are attached to the top, in the cabinet saw they are attached to the cabinet. Generally, this means less vibration and better quality cuts....however, that is generally true...
1. 
   forestgirl | May 25, 2004 07:29pm | #5

   That attachment design also means you don't need a 2x4 and a hammer to adjust the blade parallel to the miter slot!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   JHall | May 26, 2004 04:14am | #6

   Which is exactly what I want to do.  I have about 1/32" difference in the blade-to-miter slot distance as measured at the front and the back of the saw.  From everybody's description my 10" Craftsman (Model #113.2241) is certainly a Contractors saw.  (Motor mounted to the rear, 3/4 hp, trunions mounted to the top, etc.)  BTW, what I perceive as trunions are the fixtures mounted to the underside of the table, front and back, in which rides the carriage carrying the arbor and blade - anchor points for tilt rotation.   I assume that in order to realign the saw blade parallel with the miter slots I should loosen the bolts holding the trunions to the top and tap (with hammer and 2x4) the trunnions into alignment.  I therefore presume the trunnion bolt holes have some clearance in them to allow movement.  Thanks to everyone for your hints and info.

1. 
   forestgirl | May 26, 2004 04:27am | #7

   Yep, you got it.  Isn't it amazing that we're expected to accomplished something measurable in a few 1/100'ths by using a hammer and a piece of wood, LOL?!!!  Of course, there's always those little retro-fit gizmos (Pal somethingorother), but I've read mixed reports on how well they work.

   There are so many other advantages to a cabinet saw that, given a permissive budget, I can't see any reason to pass on one in favor of a contractor's saw for a permanent in-the-shop installation.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   jackhall | May 26, 2004 08:49pm | #9

   Let me give you my wife's phone number.

2. 
   adrienne4468 | May 26, 2004 09:43pm | #10

   As long as you're talking to wives let me give you my wifes phone # too

   tonyWe already have enough youth, how about a fountain of smarts.

2. 
   Robbie | May 27, 2004 08:42pm | #12

   Jack:  Do yourself a favor.  Fo to Woodcraft and buy the PALS screws for your TS.  You can adjust minutely and easily and never need a hammer again.  Best $20 I spent when I owned a Delta Contractor saw.

1. 
   JHall | May 29, 2004 04:47am | #13

   Will take a look.  Thanks.

2. 
   JHall | May 29, 2004 09:58pm | #14

   What is a PALS screw?

3. 
   Robbie | May 29, 2004 11:44pm | #15

   Jack:  In the back of your contractor saw, there are  two bolts that screw the trunnions up into the table.  These two bolts hold the trunnions, and thus the sawblade, parallel to the miter channel.  If it is not parallel, then the factory procedure is to loosen these two bolts and literally smack the hell out of the trunnion with a hammer and hope that you can move it precisely into alignment.  It works, but can take hours.  If you are unlucky, you can make the alignment worse and have a dickens of a time trying to get it back.

   PALS are two replacement bolt systems for the two OEM bolts.  The difference is that they have a collar around them that incorporates a side adjustment screw.  So.... with PALS you just turn a small allen wrench and essentially "dial" you trunnion into alignment very precisely.  

   When I did this on my Delta contractor saw, I was able to dial out .008 of slop and dial the blade to within .001 of parallel.  It took about 20 minutes.  It worked so great that I did it to a 1953 Delta contractor saw that I was in the process of restoring.  Same dramatic effect.

   Woodcraft sells the system.  It is particular to the individual saw design.  So you should call them, give them the saw model  and ask if they have the PALS for your saw.  Will probably set you back $20 or so.

4. 
   JHall | May 30, 2004 11:36pm | #16

   Robbie.  I called Woodcraft yesterday and ordered a PALS set for a Craftsman TS.  Am anxious to try it out.  Thanks for the description.  By the way, my TS has trunion fittings (I think) at the front and rear.  Do I loosed both units to adjust?

2. 
   CharlieP | May 26, 2004 08:00am | #8

   My Ridgid 3612 contractor saw has an eccentric adjuster so I can align the blade parallel with the miter slot to a very fine precision without using a hammer. 

   Earlier saws did not have this feature - your point is valid for most but not all contactor saws.  (Now if only the motor didn't stick out the back, making it a PITA to store in the garage/shop.)________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

2. 
   RDW | May 25, 2004 02:20am | #2

   Cabinet saws are generally heavier, more HP available, and usually 220V. can rip much bigger stock (panels) - although many contractor saws now have 30-52" rip fences. 

   To me, the best saw has the least runout. - with ample HP of course!

3. 
   Dustmight | May 25, 2004 02:45am | #3

   Looking down from the top, contractor and cabinet saws can look identical if they both have a good fence, because they both have a standard 27"d x 40"w table. Underneath is where the major differences are. A contractor saw will have a 1-1/2 to 2hp motor hanging out the back with a belt driven arbor. On a true cabinet saw, the motor is typically 3-5hp and is mounted inside. (there are saws that are incorrectly called cabinet saws that are merely contractor saws with the motor inside) On a real cabinet saw the arbor is belt driven by a multiple belt system of shorter belts, helping with better power transfer and less vibration. As stated, the trunnions are mounted differently, and they are considerably heavier on a cabinet saw. DC is also better on cabinet saws. Fences may or may not be the same. On lower end contractor saws the fences are average. On cabinet saws and high end contractor saws, the fences will be a Biesemeyer t-type or Unifence. Some contractor saws have steel extension wings, some cast iron. I've never seen steel wings on a cabinet saw....only cast iron or an extension table.

   A contractor saw will do a good job on the vast majority of tasks that a cabinet saw will do, but a cabinet saw will do everything a contractor saw will do, and will do it with ease, stay in alignment better, and will typically last several lifetimes.

1. 
   fredb | May 25, 2004 04:37pm | #4

   Hi:

   I have a Delta contractor's saw I purchased in the late 80's. I added a Bessy fence (52") and built a rolling base and extension wings for it (making a router table out of the wide side). The motor is 1.5HP. As a hobbyist, it's all I should ever need. I've just ordered a link type belt to replace the stock "V" belt which is supposed to cut down on vibration too (the belt needs replacing anyway).

   I've been thrilled to no end with this saw setup. All the difference in the world was adding the Bessy fence. Before that, is seemed only like and strong upside-down circular saw with a flat top! The original fence was trashed (literally).

   Hope this helps...Kind regards - Fred

4. 
   SRToolguy | May 27, 2004 05:19am | #11

   Given the responses that you've recieved as being correct, and the fact that I only scanned through them quickly I think the only point missed was the fact of portability. A cabinet saw is not normally mounted on a mobile base. It is done but I personally feel that to be defeating. A cabinet saw should be mounted firmly to a solid surface so that factors such as torque and vibration are minimized.

   Some folks would argue that a well tuned, high quality cabinet saw should not suffer from things such as torque and vibration and they are right in as much as the weight of these saws is so great that it in itself nearly eliminates the problem completely.

   So there in lies the question you must ask yourself, do you need portability or not. Jet, Powermatic and General all make very nice Contractors saws that will outperform your craftsman hands down while still remaining portable. Thats not to say that you will pick these up and load them on your pickup but simply that they can be moved around your shop quite easily. These saws average in the 300lb range when fitted with cast iron table extensions.

   T

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy