Replies

1. 
   thumbnailed | Jul 16, 2008 05:35am | #1

   Depending on your kitchen layout, I've found it convenient to put the transformer in the cabinet over the refrigerator, you usually have an extra outlet behind the fridge, too. You just have to set up the wiring before you do the crown, and put a small access hole in the top of the cabinet, then attach the transformer to the side or back wall of the cabinet.

2. 
   oldusty | Jul 16, 2008 05:57am | #2

     b,

             Your right to be concerned about the heat , make sure you follow the manufacturers specs for placement and allow some gap around the cabinet door or some other form of ventilation if needed .

           Another possible way to conceal the transformer if you can't use a neighboring cabinet would be to cut a false ceiling or top . you could make a placard like piece to mount the lights in and also with the use of a few buttons and screws access the transformer . Maybe just cut the opening a little larger then you need and make the cover a few inches larger around .

                    regards            dusty

3. 
   Frank Vucolo | Jul 16, 2008 07:27am | #3

   I just did my kitchen and had a similar situation. I used 8 low voltage puck lights under and in cabinets.

   I located the transformers in the basement. In advance of installing the cabinets, I ran line voltage from the switch boxes to the basement, then ran low voltage to all the puck locations. The transformers are mounted on a board in the basement and are easily accessable, replacable in the future if needed.

   I used a system that allowed line voltage dimmers. Works perfectly!

   Good luck

   Frank

1. 
   bofh | Jul 16, 2008 07:40am | #4

   Thanks, all, for the quick replies. There's already AC in the wall (the previous cabinets had hardwired horribly ugly under-cab fluorescent lights), so maybe I'll put the transformer somewhere in the lower cabinet unit, and just drop a low-voltage line down through the wall; maybe even build in a little vented box for the transformer...So then, what about a switch? I don't want a little clicker on the AC line, so I perhaps either a wall switch or something built into the cabinet itself?Neil

1. 
   saschafer | Jul 16, 2008 06:39pm | #5

   You could use a door switch (like in a refrigerator door) that turns the lights on when the cabinet is opened. If the cabinet has multiple doors, you'd have to run two or more switches in parallel, one for each door.

   Be sure to use switches rated for the voltage they'll be used at. Switches designed for AC line voltage don't work reliably at low voltage.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   oldusty | Jul 16, 2008 06:55pm | #6

   b,

             There are special touch  switch / dimmers that are compatable with most systems . Placement either behind a door or ?

                   d

4. 
   quixdraw | Jul 17, 2008 12:45am | #7

   LED's come in all colors now--as for the transformer location---install it in a cabinet with adequete ventilation as they DO get hot---say 6 inches clearance around it witha metal base elevated above any wood surface--say a small box inside the top of a cabinet with holes for ventilation--and DO NOT use wrong sized wire for the circuit requirements.  Gordon Master electrician  Livermore,CA

1. 
   bofh | Jul 17, 2008 02:46am | #8

   Thanks to all for the replies and suggestions!Neil

1. 
   xmike | Jul 17, 2008 03:01am | #9

   Perhaps just one last suggestion.I avoided the transformer dilemma by using 110vac 20w halogen puck lights, purchased at the Borg (Home Depot). They look the same as the low voltage ones and don't appear to produce any more heat (actually, they don't produce any more heat - 20 watts is 20 watts). For a dimmer, I purchased a high wattage wall switch/dimmer and mounted it through the top in one of the cabinets at the front top of the cabinet where it's control knob is concealed by the faceframe - open the door and reach in under the lip of the face frame and dial in your brightness. I selected a high wattage dimmer so that it would not get hot itself. It works - it stays cool. Be sure that you put the dimmer in a properly sized plastic or metal switch box, or you'll get swatted by the electrical inspector and get to retrofit it after the cabinet is installed.

1. 
   quixdraw | Jul 17, 2008 03:33am | #10

   High wattage dimmers use a finned cover to release heat--using a plastic box not good--usless you like smell of melting plastic--also wood+ heat over several hours can start fire--scorch wood and finish--UL code speficially says 6 inch clearance.

   Retired Master electrician  30+ years 3rd generation

1. 
   xmike | Jul 17, 2008 05:14am | #11

   Understood! Metal better!Howsomever, the high wattage dimmer tends to stay cool when faced with the simpler task of dimming a short, low wattage string of lights. Thus, my choice of the higher wattage one. In my case, the dimmer is not even warm to the touch after being on for days. But I can certainly see that if I were dimming a string of 75 watt can lights or a large ceiling fan with integral light, that would not be the case and heat would rule.I'm not trying to be a smart Alec and I'm always eager to learn and improve,so.....in your experience or opinion, what would be better? How can we improve?Re another post....If a person is going to use a transformer, I like the suggestion of remotely installing the transformer in the basement. There was an article several years ago where a contractor described using a large, remotely mounted heavy-duty low voltage yard-light transformer, installed on the basement wall and on it's own breaker, for his 12 volt kitchen light source. His installation was pretty slick, but required that low voltage wiring penetrate the floor and run through the walls behind the cabinets involved.