Replies

1. 
   ricktrainer | Jul 29, 2009 11:56pm | #1

   I've used 40 grit sawdust from the same board mixed into a really thick paste (i.e lots of saw dust to glue ratio) with Titebond Original w/ good results. The Titebond Original dries a lighter color & the high percentage of larger sawdust shavings allows the wood to act like the real thing as far as sanding & accepting the finish. Leave the repair proud to sand it down to bare wood.

1. 
   Rayw3 | Jul 30, 2009 02:50am | #3

   Thanks.  I will give it a try.

   Rayw3

2. 
   stantheman | Jul 30, 2009 02:13am | #2

   1/8x1/8x1/8 is pretty small.  If it is that shallow and that "square"  why not cut a small piece of scrap mahogany to size and glue it in proud, sand even?

   Do you mean it is too dark after a top coat of finish?  If you mean before finish, it should disappear after.

    

1. 
   Rayw3 | Jul 30, 2009 02:56am | #4

   It is actually a little space wherein a walnut spline did not full seat against the saw cut in the mohogany mitered corner.  It was black in the scrap piece before and after sanding with no finish applied.   I will try applying my seedlac finish on the scrap piece.

    

   Thanks,

   Rayw3

3. 
   Quickstep | Jul 31, 2009 03:05pm | #5

   I've tried the same thing with CA and gotten the same result. I think that trick only works in ebony. Mahogany just darkens too much when saturated. I have successfully used epoxy mixed with a combination of mahogany dust and colloidal silica. The silica lightens it up a bit. I don't see why you couldn't do the same with the mahogany dust, silica and then CA, but I haven't tried it. Either way it yields a monochromatic patch; I like Stan's idea.

    

   Sometimes if the gap is small, simply filling it with straight epoxy will let it take on the color of the surrounding wood and provide a sufficient disguise.