Replies

1. 
   Walnutz | Apr 03, 2009 09:15pm | #1

   Are you using a bandsaw, or a tablesaw?  You should be moving the wood through the blade slow enough to not overwork the blade or motor, but not so slow as to allow alot of heat to build up.

   The quality of cut is going to come from how well your saw is set up, and the blade you are using.  Slowing down the feed rate will not inhance the quality of cut.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 04, 2009 06:40am | #2

   In addition to telling us what saw you're using, it'd be helpful to tell us the configuration of the blade. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 04, 2009 07:12pm | #3

   In addition to telling us what saw you're using, it'd be helpful to tell us the configuration of the blade. 

   And then again, whatever blade you use. or whatever wood. Some woods in parts burn! whatever you do! Period!

   I cut everything a tad oversized (and yes, I use my hand tools to clean it up). Usually just a handscraper and OK, sandpaper too...

   Burn marks.. Spit on it, to wet it a bit... Scraper will remove most of it in short manner!

   Edited 4/4/2009 12:14 pm by WillGeorge

1. 
   bendww | Apr 05, 2009 08:14pm | #4

   Thanks for the responses. I'm using a Minimax MM16 bandsaw with a 1" Lennox carbide tooth blade. I will try a faster feed rate at the expense of a smoother cut in the interest of avoiding the burn.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 06, 2009 01:24pm | #5

   Sorry about my post. Somehow I did not see BANDSAW! I was thinking Table Saw.

   I have a 1 inch Lennox blade (non-carbide) that I use on my bandsaw (switched to 1/2 inch lately). I have to admit that I have never had 'burning' of wood using a bandsaw on any wood type I use. I do not use my bandsaw and expect, or try fo, a very smooth cut. Just a reasonable 'close to the line one'. I scrape and sand for the final profile.

    

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 07, 2009 05:43pm | #6

   How many tpi is the blade?  (teeth per inch)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   bendww | Apr 08, 2009 04:39am | #7

   It's a 1" Lennox Woodmaster CT with 1.3tpi.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 08, 2009 05:27am | #8

   Well, it certainly doesn't have too many teeth! ;-)  Have things improved with a faster feed rate?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 4/7/2009 10:29 pm by forestgirl

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 08, 2009 05:44am | #9

   I've done around 400 linear feet of QSWO in the last month and a half using a Lennox bi-metal. No burn on any of it. The only time I have gotten a burn was with dull blade around a year ago and I had to feed slowly. I just shut down the saw and put my spare blade on as I always keep a back-up.

   So.. just how long have you used the Lennox carbide? It should not be the blade unless if has finally dulled or the teeth have lost their set.

   Good luck...

   Sarge..

1. 
   bendww | Apr 08, 2009 05:51am | #10

   This is a fairly new saw for me, so the blade is in great shape. I increased tension & feed rate. So far I have avoided the burn...knock on wood.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 08, 2009 06:27am | #11

   I believe in beam strenght and your MM can deliver. The carbide requires much more than carbon blades.. the bi-metal also requires more than carbon but not as much as carbide. Proper tension and feed rate are very important as I see it. Hopefully that helps your situation as indicated.

   You can get a bad blade but not likely, so I believe you may have solved your own problem with a little experimenting to find the right stuff for your saw and the wood being re-sawn.

   Again.. good luck

   Sarge..