Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Aug 08, 2004 11:10pm | #1

   Bob,

   If the burning's on thick sections, it could be that the blade is too fine for the job. 

   If it burns on all thicknesses, it could be alignment of the fence to the blade - the heel of the fence should be a trifle (0.2mm = 5-10 thou) further away from the blade than the gap at the front of the blade.

   Just a couple of thoughts, both assuming that the blade's sharp.

   I'm sure I've missed something here - someone else please jump in.

   Cheers,

   eddie

1. 
   nohrn | Aug 09, 2004 12:06am | #2

   Thank you, I was going to try a rip blade but hated to keep changing blades.. I will check fence allignment also...

1. 
   citrouille | Aug 09, 2004 12:17am | #3

   You are burning the edge definitly because the wood is pinched between the fence and the back of the blade. Eddie s right, check the fence and don't be affraid to move the far side of it out, up to 1/32 !

   C.

2. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 09, 2004 01:32am | #4

   Good advice from Eddie about fence alignment.

   It sounds like you have already tried this, but usually, increasing your feed rate will minimize burning. But if it doesn't, then the problem is almost definitely fence alignment.

   One other thought: I assume you have figured out that stopping, even momentarily, in mid rip will almost always burn the wood. So it is worth practicing how best to coordinate the movement of your hands so you can feed the board through the blade at a steady, continuous speed.

1. 
   nohrn | Aug 09, 2004 04:09am | #5

   no I didn.t ever think about stopping the rip, but makes good sense that the blade would build up heat faster with no wood movement. I will check allignment but just now after making some cuts the edge was rough , not at all like in the past. Makes me suspect the blade. I have some new ones   I'll try one of them

1. 
   johnhardy | Aug 09, 2004 05:52am | #6

   You really need to check that your saw is set up as Eddie says it should be (slight gap at the outfeed side of the blade. You also need to make sure you're using the correct blade. From one of your replies, it looks like you want to use one blade for everything. That's not the best answer. Use a rip blade for ripping and use a crosscut blade for crosscutting. Trying to get the best results with a combination blade isn't really the best thing to do. And if you're using a crosscut blade for ripping it's no wonder you're getting lots of burning.

   John

3. 
   JohnWW | Aug 09, 2004 03:54pm | #7

   I addition to the suggestions about blade alignment and the proper blade, the blade needs to be clean.

   John W.

1. 
   Fingrs | Aug 09, 2004 08:57pm | #8

   Can't say what my reason is, but when using a combination blade to rip hardwood I raise the blade so the teeth are in contact with the wood only at the very front and back of the blade.  I concur with the other suggestions.

4. 
   forestgirl | Aug 10, 2004 04:43am | #9

   Bob, there's really no need to offset the back end of the fence.  I do not do this, because there are occasions when I want to shift the fence to the other side of the blade.  Take Sgian's advice (Sgian=Richard J.) and clamp on a short fence that stops about mid-blade.  That will completely stop any pinching.

   I can get my old Jet contractor's saw tuned to have no burning whatsoever, but it doesn't always stay that way.  The fence has to be dead-parallel to the blade, the splitter must be both parallel to the fence and absolutely 90-degrees to the top of the table, especially when ripping thicker stock.  Sometimes my pushing technique will cause problems (more when cutting plywood panels than when ripping narrow stock), which are solved by using the short fence. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)