I’m designing blanket chests for a customer, 36″L x 18″D x 15″H. Mahogany primary wood. Mitered corner joints, flat top with trim around, trim flush with bottom of carcass, solid pine bottom floating in 3/8″ grooves to allow for wood movement, 3 3/8″ D bun feet.
Problem: The installation of the bun feet. I don’t want to drill down thru the bottom because of wood movement.
Idea so far: install a 2 1/2″ cleat around the bottom (butt jointed, not mitered) under the bottom, flush with the carcass. I will attach the feet to the cleats with lag screws and washers. I will countersink the lag heads and washers into the cleats so the bottom rests evenly on the cleats.
I hope this is understandable.
Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks Pete
Replies
Hi Pete ,
You could mount say a piece of 1/2" attach it to the top of the foot and screw it to the bottom of the chests .
They also make mounting plates for legs , you could also use an anchor bolt , or a threaded insert or a concealed Tee nut into the bottom though .
You could drill a 1/2" or larger dowel into the foot center and the bottom or a cleat or block .
Look at upholstery supply for the plates
hope this helps dusty
Dusty,
Thanks!
I am considering a 3/4" triangle inside each corner glued and screwed into the carcass, with a lag screw thru into the foot. Will this give enough support for the foot? I believe it will provide carcass diagonal strength.
Pete
Pete , just my opinion but the coarse threads of a lag screw are not well suited for going in to the end grain of the Bun's .
dusty
Dusty,
Good point!
I will look at different screws.
I've looked in my design books (still looking), and haven't found any other ways to mount bun feet.
Pete
Often bun feet are turned with a substantial dowel (1 1/2' perhaps). The dowel is glued into a hole into a frame that the carcase rests on. Often the frame edges are covered with a molding that matches the trim on the top for a balanced look. The molding can overlap the sides of the carcase, hiding any joint. That look also helps to "ground" the chest, keeping it from looking top heavy.
These feet do not have the dowel, so I will use anchor bolts of some sort.
I have a very old commode (dry sink) that has the bun feet attached to exposed boards (3 sides) which are proud of the carcass, and it is a very attractive effect. The customer wants trim to match the top, so I will use either the triangle inside or the board frame under the carcass.
I will make a mockup to see if the added height of the frame boards detract from the look of the chest.
Thanks!
Pete
You could use an anchor bolt the correct size , you can get them with wood threads on both ends , if you glue the feet , they are good to go .
I would rather mount to a plate or a 1/2" plywood or sumthun , so the whole plate comes off and the foot is attached to the plate , just me .
regards dusty
Dusty,
As I told Steve I will use anchor bolts, and either a plate inside the carcass or frame boards under the box. I am going to make a mock up to see the look of both methods.
Thanks again!
Pete
Probably not the direction you wanted to go but had you considered mahogany veneer ply bottom? No wood movement, drill through.
BB
Edit: drill and then plug.
Edited 3/28/2009 10:31 am by boilerbay
BB,
An interesting idea.
I plan on using solid wood for these chests, but have used plywood in the past (not mahogany, $$!)
Thanks
Pete
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