Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Jun 16, 2009 05:25pm | #1

   The idea of the screw/washer setup is that it makes it easier to adjust the angle of the stop (to "recalibrate" it from time to time, as necessary). It looks like David Finck is using a flat-head drywall screw, a cup washer and a flat washer. That's probably a bit of overkill, but it has the advantage that drywall screws (which only come in flat head styles) are hard and strong. A round-head wood screw and a flat washer (skipping the cup washer) would be fine here as well. Diameter should be #8 or #10.

   Normally, I would say to avoid screws from a home center (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.), since they are universally of such poor quality. In this case, however, I think you're probably safe. Just be sure to predrill holes in the base board (3/16" diameter for a #10 screw is fine). Use a screw that's long enough to go almost all of the way through the base board.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   esc | Jun 16, 2009 05:36pm | #2

   Thanks Steve. I whish I could buy screws from Lowes or Home Depot because it would mean that I am in USA. But I am in Italy and I don't think I can buy them there. But I got your message on quality. Thanks Enrico

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 16, 2009 05:58pm | #3

   For what it's worth, Enrico, I used machine bolts and nuts on mine (with washers, and inset on the underside of the board). The bolt/nut combo allows greater compression without worry of the base stripping. Slightly over-sized holes allow some fine adjustment of the angle between the fence and the plane trough (small fractions of a degree). T-nuts on the underside would accomplish this, as well. Elongated slots allow for adjustment of the end surface from time to time, assuring that the fence is dead even with the edge of the trough.