I am starting to build an exterior door for my shop. In essense, this will be an 8-0 door. Would lap joints be appropriate for frame joinery in a door this size? My plan is to build a modified frame and panel door, which will hinge up when opened ( not unlike a hanger door). The frame will be constructed from 2x red cedar. The panel will be 1x cedar tongue and grooved, which I plan to rabbit into the frame, followed by a layer of either 1/2″ or 3/4″ A-C plywood, followed by 1x red cedar to disguise the edge of the plywood. I would appreciate any thoughts on this design and the joinery which I am contemplating.
Many Thanks
Rick
Replies
8-0, is that width or height? The door sounds very solid, and heavy which would require extra hinging unless it were on a roller track.
I rebuilt a similar garage door, reinforcing with glued on 1/2" ply panels, over a t&g, overlapping with 1/2" ply 'stiles and rails' but it's worked well.
Thankyou for your thoughts. Does a lap joint make sense or should I simoly use dowl joints?
I appreciate your time.
Rick
Lap joints work well and have a much larger glue surface area than dowels. Again, weight is the major consideration. This can be calculated by finding the specific gravity of cedar, or the cubic ft wt of cedar and the ply involved, and multiplying by the total sq ft.
From you post I would think MORE on the hardware to hold it!
Wood will do what it wants to... Outside of good woodworking practices nothing you can do about it.. Hardware however can make or break it.. My 2 cents...
EDIT:: I forgot.. If you can hide 1/2 or 3/4 inch quality plywood triangles in the corners will help ALOT!
Edited 6/2/2005 12:08 pm ET by Will George
Something you might consider when doing some of the lap joints is to make them look like dovetails. It's decorative, not too much extra work, and would help make your doors say "wood shop inside."
Attached is an example of a detail I did in a cabinet. The joint is essentially a lap joint combined with dovetail shaping.
NICE.. I like it...
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