Bringing life back to older machines…
kgrum
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Hi pals,
Just got my first jointer (a blue 90’s model Jet, 6″), used of course. It seems to run fine, but has been sitting around for a many years. Its got a little rust on the tables and fence and I’m sure it could use a good cleaning and lubrication of appropriate parts (not sure if I should dismantle and reassemble the whole thing). If anyone has any advice regarding this undertaking or could point me to a good resource it would be much appreciated.
Many thanks,
kg
Replies
kg,
Prolly the same model I have. Got it used also. It ran fine, the tables were quite rusty but not pitted, and generally dirty everywhere.
Being my first jointer I proceeded with caution; partially cause I didn't know a whole lot about jointers and I really didn't know how well it worked, going on the if it aint broke don't fix it theory.
Cleaned everything up, dust collection shute was clogged, used WD-40 and fine sandpaper to clean them up. Had no clue if the knives were sharp or not but there's a quick and easy way to find out - run a board thru it.
Installed the DC cover, connected it to the DC, fired it up and ran a board thru it. Nice and smooth, except for about 1/4" next to the fence. Hmmmmm, found out the fence was set too far back beyond the end of the cutters. Live and learn as they say.
I lucked out and you may too. Point is if it aint broke...... The main thing is to make sure all the safety systems are in order before using it, especially the blade cover. Make sure that swings freely and returns to its home position.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi KG.... As Bob said, check the safety devices on the jointer and do some basic maintanence (rust removal). Contact Jet and see if you can get a copy of the instruction manual that came with the machine. It may (should) show all the spots that need oiling to keep it running smoothly.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
Steve & KG,
I just remembered, you can download the manual from the Jet WEBsite as I did. Thanks for reminding me Steve.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
kg,
Generally the manuals with most machines are useless for when it comes to maintenance, or most anything else for that matter, but it can't hurt to look.
The simple rule for lubricating older cast iron machinery is that if some part rotates or slides it should be oiled, motors and sealed ball bearings excepted.
Grease only works if you can take get it in between the moving parts which usually requires disassembly and shouldn't be done until you are sure that simply applying oil won't make things move smoothly. So look under the infeed table and turn the knobs, or move the height adjusting lever, and try to get a bit of oil on any place where metal moves against metal.
Don't move the outfeed table until you are going to change the blades and then you will need to follow the directions that are (hopefully) in the manual for setting the outfeed table height in relation to the cutter head.
The bearings on the cutter head are almost certainly sealed and can't be lubricated. The bearings should be fine unless they are making noise or feel rough if you turn the head with the drive belt off. If they are noisy or rough the only fix is to replace them.
John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
John,Do you have a view on spray grease? The little plastic tube lets you apply it reasonably accurately and before the solvent flashes off it can penetrate a fair way. I have an outboard motor the manual of which states to use this grease exclusively.David
David,I don't have a lot of experience with spray on grease, except a specialty version used for heavy chain drives.Spray on grease will probably work about as well as applying oil but I doubt if it is a true substitute for conventional grease applied with the machine disassembled. I suspect that what penetrates is mostly the oil part of the mix. But any form of lubrication is far better than using the machine without adequate oil or grease in the mechanisms.John W.
JohnWW,Any reason not to use marine grade lithium? I have a lot of it around for trailer bearings or is it too heavy? I was thinking for metal on metal like -- guideways etc.Boiler
Well here I go kicking over the hornets' nest. One thing to look at is the belt. If it has taken a kink where it went around the small pulley and if it was a cheep belt this can cause vibration and I would replace it.
In any case be sure the belt is not too slack. Doesn't need to be like a guitar string but shouldn't be floppy.
For all practical purposes grease is oil with soap in it . When it sits around too long it gets like wax. Grease should slough back into the balls of the bearings like sloppy slush or act like a sponge and allow the oil to separate and to seep into the balls.
I was going to say before reading Mr White's post that you can look at the grease in one of the bearings by using a pick from a pick set and hook the pick on the seal near the perimeter of the bearing cartridge just inside the outermost edge. The seal of the bearing is a metal plate with a rubber coating on it. Usually black but may be blue or red etc. The outer edge of this plate is just a rubber lip so it slips up into a groove in the cartridge bearing case
Here is a pic
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BG409A22-Abi+Sealed+Cartridge+Bearing.aspx
Pry out the blue ( or black or red ) thing carefully using a pick like one of these :
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999802000P?keyword=pick+set
If the grease looks wet chances are the rest are OK. If not squirt in a bit of motor oil to freshen it and as many other bearings as you can get to.
see "hillrider's" comment here
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-166977.html
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 8/26/2009 2:39 am by roc
(not sure if I should dismantle and reassemble the whole thing).
Do it! If you get all together again you have a new lover.. If not.. OK also.
NEVER limit yourself on what you can do.. Humans suprise themselves all the time when working!
Hi Pal,
I had a moment at work so I opened a bearing cartridge. The side plate on this one was the thinest I have come across so it warped a bit. This is a smaller bearing than anything on your jointer so you shouldn't have a problem but if you get a kink just flatten it with pliers.
See pics. The last one shows the cover popped back into place.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 8/27/2009 9:03 pm by roc
Edited 8/28/2009 12:19 am by roc
Oh I just read the spray grease thing. My experience with it ( use it at work ) is that it does not separate really. It comes out of the can the consistency of root beer float foam. Yes rather fizzy and frothy and very thin. It is full of solvent so it can really soak in. The solvent vehicle then evaporates over a couple of days and viola . . . pasty grease. Works well enough but I would recommend it only as a last resort because it seems like allot of soap but not much oil after the solvent gets done beating it up.
The nozzles and spray tubes clog rather badly so if you use it much you might keep the nozzles etc., in solvent and pop them on for a quick lube then back in the solvent.
Details, details.
cheers
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 8/27/2009 9:36 pm by roc
Edited 8/27/2009 9:38 pm by roc
Personally I rank spray grease as the option to use when you want a deep penetration and cannot/don't want to dismantle.Kind of like WD40 and oil from a can. I don't know how it would stand up in a situation where it is lubricating. say, a bearing.As I mentioned in an earlier post I have a little 6HP outboard where spray grease is the only recommended lubricant for the "body" parts. It certainly works very well to lubricate the steering mechanism which would otherwise be a several hour job to dismantle and grease normally.
You might look in the local library for a copy of Mr. White's book on maintaining power equipment. He's too polite to mention it, but I find it's a great reference. If you find the book helpful, might be worth purchasing a copy to always have available.
The best source on the web for the care and feeding of old (er) wood working machinery is http://www.owwm.org . Wealth of info and many talented and experienced individuals who are will to share recommendations.
In reading through this thread, which seems to have plenty of good advise, I realized it was predicated on a 1990's era machine. Now as a guy with a 1946 vintage Unisaw, a 70's era lathe, and an 80's model bandsaw, all of which just take normal lubrication and maintenance, what about REALLY older machinery. Just a thought--I guess I'm getting old when 1990 seems pretty modern.
Should clean up fine.
Ordinarily if a machine has cheap sealed bearings I replace them on general principle, but John's advice to turn by hand and check was sound. I wouldn't go picking at the seals. By the time you're inside the bearing caps the replacement job's half done, and as roc found, the seals may not seal any more.
I'm assuming this machine has dovetailed ways, over time gunk builds up at the top ends that causes the ends of the table to "droop". Check with a straightedge. If so you'll have to pull the tables to clean the ways. Take some pics before you start so you don't make any mistakes, and note especially how the gibs (flat plates alongside the ways) go in. You really want oil rather than grease in the ways or they can be difficult to align, but from there the machine is unlikely to be particular.
Be careful not to overtighten the gib screws as it's possible to crack the dovetail if you do. Barely snug is all you need.
>roc found, the seals may not seal any more.<You misunderstand. The seals seal no prob.Pulling off a side seal versus pulling a bearing and replacing it, with out damaging the new bearing way worse than an old bearing that is fine but needs fresh lube , are two very different things.I watch people at work do more damage by replacing bearings than by lubing the old ones all the time. Trust me. If you don't do this every day consider yourself forewarned. Get it a bit stuck or canted as you install it . . . press it ( or more likely in the home shop pound it on ) with the wrong understanding . . . and that's all she wrote . . . Dear John. Then it's knock , knock , knock after you get it all back together.Funny story about oil for ways. Way back in the dark ages of the eighties I bought a brand new metal lathe see pic ( mine's gray but same machine ).The guy said " of corse we'll throw in a gallon of way oil ". I thought he said whale oil and being all green peaced-out I got my hackles up. Then he explained what the 'ell he was talking about.So don't use whale oil on your jointer. And if you are not a born mechanic with a shop full of pullers and bearing presses don't replace sealed cartridge bearings on machinery.Just give 'em a little squirt and call it good.; )rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )Edited 9/6/2009 12:49 am by roc
Edited 9/6/2009 12:58 am by roc
I don't imagine the "squirt of oil" method will be a problem in amaeteur use, but bearing replacement isn't exactly rocket science. It does require some basic horse sense and familiarity with tools. Some removals require a puller, if you don't have one I recommend taking that as an excuse to buy a really useful tool. ;-) Most woodworking machine bearings can be pressed onto their shaft with a piece of pipe just large enough to slip over the shaft and a mallet.No question if you press a bearing improperly you'll destroy it.Pete
>it isn't exactly rocket science. It does require some basic horse sense <When I hear that . . . phrase I always wonder whether or not rocket scientists when speaking to each other say the same thing :" Well you realize achieving escape velocity isn't exactly rocket science. It does require some basic horse sense and the odd piece of tubing. Really; it's not that complicated. ": )rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 9/6/2009 10:54 pm by roc
Like anything else involving tools, you have to assess your own ability for the job. I've done bearing swaps on motors with nothing more than a vise, mallet, a few blocks of wood, and piece of pipe. Some are more complicated. Give it a try sometime and I promise you you'll put away your dental tools forever.For the original poster, the OWWM forum (http://www.owwm.org) doesn't deal with offshore tools, but there's a wealth of information there on machine repair and bearing replacement.
Edited 9/7/2009 10:08 am ET by PeteBradley
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