My plan was to build a new dining room table this summer and my wife was looking over my shoulder when I was reading the current issue of FFW. While reading the article on attaching table tops, she fell in love with the trestle table in the article.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011213058.pdf
Looks like I am making that table. I am not complaining, it is a very sharp looking table, and I don’t see that many challenges (that won’t be fun) in making it.
I am looking for advice on the table top. I have several very wide boards (maple) I have been saving for a table. All are over 12 inches wide and I am thinking the tabletop will be three boards wide. So I am concerned about cupping. When I look at the table in the article, it looks to me that the dovetail cleat is taking the place of any breadboard end?
Will that be enough strength for my table with such wide boards? I am thinking no.
I am thinking of installing another dovetail cleat, outside of the one attaching the base, close to the end to prevent cupping.
Any thoughts? Advice?
Replies
Do they work?
I saw the article and my reactions was that if you tap in that length tapered sliding dovetail it would hold things flat but worried that they would not let go to allow the top to expand and contract. But maybe I've got the expansive force of wood not in proper proportion to the limited frictional force in the sliding dovetail. I thought overtime they would loosen. So they may be interesting but ultimately a bother.
I was also less than convinced that seeing that trapezoid shape notched into the bottom of the top was all that wonderful and positive feature, but each to his own. And from what I understand, breadboard ends do not really hold a top flat, so if you like them fine. I've always rather liked the honesty of seeing the board ends, but once again, each to his own.
Peter
"I saw the article and my
"I saw the article and my reactions was that if you tap in that length tapered sliding dovetail it would hold things flat but worried that they would not let go to allow the top to expand and contract."
I was wondering the same thing
Bread board clutter
IMHO, A bread board edge on the very scandanavian looking piece would be overkill and clutter.
Bread Board Ends Are Decorative
Bread board ends are primarily decorative they aren't effective for preventing cupping and they can lead to the top cracking if they bind. In general they are more trouble than they are worth. In addition if the table is in an environment that will cause seasonal wood movement the ends of the boards will not be flush with the edges of the table at least part of the year.
OK
So John, do you think that a second dovetail cleat is neededwith such wide boards?
My thoughts
It may be my middle-aged eyeballs, but I can't tell by the photo if there is any endgrain on the top. But I can't imaging building that size of a table using mitered corners either.
riden,
I suggest dovetailing the battens on edge. Think of a 1x4 dovetailed on one edge, and tapering from full width in its center to about 1 or 1 1/2" at each end. The batten can be drilled to accept turned handles with a 1/2" or so dia pin on its end, that pierces the batten and the top of the trestle end, holding the top in place. This is the traditional construction for this type of table. (Although you will find that many are nailed thru the top into the battens than are dovetailed.
The edgewise batten is better able to resist any cupping tendency of the top or its individual boards than would a batten oriented flatwise. And a pair of them, a foot or so (whatever the overhang at the ends) ought to be sufficient for the job.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled