Darrell,
I received your book last week and can’t put it down! It is very well written and laid out. Congrats to you, as I know many woodworkers will find it a wealth of information as I did. The book arrived just in time, as I am near completion of the Gary Rogowski-designed sideboard that appeared in FWW #124-126 and I want to incorporate some of the details you outline in your book into my project.
My issue is this, I want to utilize your method for attaching breadboard ends, but I don’t understand where the allowance for wood movement is if the screw holes are not slotted. Do the screws flex? I know you said that for tops over 30″ the holes should be slotted. My top is 24″ wide. How wide do you normally make your ends? Also, do you use a regular #8 wood screw or do you use a trim head screw? I only ask because the drawings in your book look like trim head screws.
Thanks,
Chris
Replies
Hi Chris,
I am relying on the screw to flex just a little.
On a 24 inch top with the last screw about 2+ inches from the end and the bread board end glued to the center of the core - using flat cut mahogany (African or Honduras) the screw will have to flex a heavy 1/16” at the most and less under normal conditions. With quartered mahogany the movement would be less.
My small end tables have a 22” wide top and I don’t slot the hole. I have shipped them all over the US and haven’t encountered any problems.
There are many variables in calculating wood movement. The finish used can slow (not stop) the process down. If your sideboard will be experiencing extreme changes in humidity and the finish used does not inhibit moisture absorption well – you might want to buy a little insurance by using a pan head screw with washer and slotting the hole slightly.
I use a regular flat head screw. I can see where the screw looks like a trim –head in the drawing. I will note that and change it in the next edition (assuming my book goes to a second edition).
…Darrell
Thanks Darrell!
Chris
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