Replies

1. 
   user-259615 | Apr 08, 2009 10:34am | #1

   I use the Jet brand. It's robust. I do get problems with clogging and burning, sometimes, but these can be reduced by being gentle on the machine.

   The main reason, however, is that, over here in the UK at least, "normal" rolls of sandpaper are wider than the drum will take. The width is important because of where the far end meets the drum. It has to do so where the holding clip is, and this changes if the width changes.

   Cheers
   Steve

   Space is more valuable than the junk that occupies it.

   Woodworking jig DVDs and The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig from http://www.workshopessentials.com

2. 
   Mahoganaholic | Apr 09, 2009 01:38am | #2

   http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com

   3" by 50 Yds. Cloth Drum  12-3080         $57.95
   Sander Roll, 80 Grit.

   Stuff works great. Shipping is about 6 bucks. You'll have to cut it yourself... but more paper for the money.

3. 
   mrbird90 | Apr 09, 2009 04:11am | #3

   I purchase all my paper from Industrial Abrasives in PA and the reason I do its that it out performs the paper that is supplied by Jet from (klingspore). You have to cut it to length and cut the angle but it is less expensive and is a heavier weight. Once you use their sandpaper you will not go back to the other.

1. 
   RickL | Apr 09, 2009 03:07pm | #4

   Ind Abrasives is tops in sandaper. Lowest minimun for custom rolls.   I do purchasing for a commercial shop and occasionally buy from others to keep up on things but IA always comes out on top in pricing and quality. Anyone who swears by Klingspor and others hasn't tried IA!!!

2. 
   Wingdoctor | Apr 09, 2009 05:18pm | #5

   Does Industrial Abrasives have a web site? Thanks for the help.

   Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan

1. 
   RickL | Apr 09, 2009 05:39pm | #6

   http://www.industrialabrasives.com

   Many companies have url's different than their name.  Type the company name in google and it will usually pull it up.

1. 
   Wingdoctor | Apr 09, 2009 07:19pm | #8

   I get a "Page cannot be opened" message on the link. Any suggestions?

   Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan

2. 
   mrbird90 | Apr 09, 2009 05:48pm | #7

   Here is their web sit for the 10yard roll

   https://commerce.riverweb.com:8003/00833.html

1. 
   Wingdoctor | Apr 09, 2009 07:19pm | #9

   I get a "Page cannot be opened" message on the link. Any suggestions?

   Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan

3. 
   hfields4 | Apr 09, 2009 08:02pm | #10

   Do you have the address for this company?

1. 
   RickL | Apr 09, 2009 08:32pm | #11

   Industrial abrasives...their website is quirky.  A new one is being worked on...

   Hours are Monday through Friday, 8:00AM to 4:30PM Eastern Time

   By Telephone:

   1-800-428-2222 sales

   1-800-451-1861 wholesale

   (610) 378-4868 fax

   By Mail:

   Industrial Abrasives Co.642 N. Eighth St.P.O. Box 14955Reading, PA 19612

   Edited 4/9/2009 4:36 pm ET by RickL

2. 
   mrbird90 | Apr 10, 2009 01:54am | #12

   I got to it by going to http://www.industrialabrasives.com and then to the roll secrion. Works for me.

1. 
   tom_47 | Apr 10, 2009 04:39am | #13

   This is slightly of the topic but..

   I have a new PM drum sander and changed the paper for the first time today. After about 5 minutes of sanding the paper slipped and overlapped on the far right side of the drum. I thought I followed the instructions accurately (left 1/8" gap on last joint on the right, all other windings were made as tight butt joints). Maybe I'm not winding the whole roll tight enough on the drum ?? Any suggestions ? Are the clip holders supposed to self tighten the paper ?Tom

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 10, 2009 12:53pm | #14

   Tom,

   When I first got the Performax 16/32 I had the same problem.  Turns out I had installed the belt backwards. DOH!  Not sure if this is what's happening with yours but is a possibility.

   The clips on mine do afford a small amount of tightening on the drum but very little.  The first few times I changed belts I disconnected one end on the old belt and unwound it, overlayed the new one with the old one, disconnected the other end of the old one and then wound the new one on - good to go.

   Sometimes wished I had six more hands at first but got the hang of it.  :-)  Kinda like winding/unwinding a bandsaw blade.

   Hey, I'm human (I think),Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   tom_47 | Apr 10, 2009 03:11pm | #15

   Bob,
   Thanks for the input but I'm sure it's wound as the manual's pictures indicate. Last night I did a google search on "performax drum sander manual" and the first hit was on -http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/PmaxSander/toolspmaxsander.html. The writer (Phil Bumbalough) advises to retighten a newly installed belt after a few passes, as the belt will streach. That seems consistent with what happened to me.Tom

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 11, 2009 03:32am | #16

   Hi Tom,

   Hadn't seen that article and thanks for the input. 

   I got mine used from a friend with no manual and kinda had to wing it when I first got it - have since downloaded it.  Interesting about the belts stretching as I've not had to retighten the ones that came with the sander. 

   Mebbe they're really good ones; it's over 10 years old.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

4. 
   tom_47 | Apr 11, 2009 04:38am | #17

   Bob,
   When you wind the paper on the drum do you butt the windings tight or do you leave some space between them ?Tom

5. 
   jvk | Apr 11, 2009 02:44pm | #18

   Leave a small gap between each.. I always start on the inboard side trying to keep the paper taught as I unroll then use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull tight at the end. retighten after a few runs as mentioned above.trimjim

6. 
   tom_47 | Apr 11, 2009 03:50pm | #19

   jvk,
   I thought about doing that (right to left) but the manual says to start on the outboard end and wind to the right. It seems your way allows much easier final insertion.
   Thanks

7. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 12, 2009 04:30am | #20

   Tom,

   Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. 

   Yes as has been stated to leaving a small gap.  I've tried changing belts both ways and prefer starting on the motor side as it leaves more room on th eother end for attaching the end - just a preference.

   I took a look at the link you provided and the authors machine looks to be a lot newer than mine.  I used a 4" reducer right on top of the sander head for maximum airflow to the DC and results in virtually no dust anywhere.  DC with this machine is mandatory in my experience with it.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

8. 
   user-259615 | Apr 13, 2009 01:12pm | #21

   I don't understand why you would want to leave a gap between the turns. This just CREATES slack in the windings (although not in the belt overall), doesn't it? And it means that if there is any slack at all in the overall belt, it is easy for it to concentrate itself at one end, resulting in a completely ineffective sanding operation and increasing likelihood of tearing.I will try installing mine from the motor end, it is a pain to get it clipped there properly.The biggest problem I have with my machine is burning. If the belt gets even very slightly clogged then burn marks can appear, especially on cherry. The belt is very difficult to rejuvenate completely.On th whole, I'm pleased with my machine. But I'd give it 7/10 rather than 10/10.Cheers
   SteveSpace is more valuable than the junk that occupies it.

   Woodworking jig DVDs and The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig from http://www.workshopessentials.com

9. 
   Julmer | Apr 13, 2009 09:00pm | #22

   I have a PM 16/32 Drum Sander and have found I do not alway engage the clips on the paper correctly. When sticking the end tab down thru the slot where the clips "grab" I can miss the clip. Also, check the clips and what order you install the belt.  I believe one of the clips on my machine is stationary and the other is spring loaded to take up slack from a stretching belt. If clipped to wrong one first, the "take up" function will not work.

10. 
    tom_47 | Apr 13, 2009 09:24pm | #23

    Julmer,
    I think you are right about the spring clip. One clip is "fixed" the other (on the motor end) is on a spring. That makes winding the paper form left to right (open to motor end) logical. Thanks for pointing that out.Tom

11. 
    tom_47 | Apr 13, 2009 09:32pm | #24

    Steve,
    Before you rewind from right to left, read julmar's post (three up from here). Also, leaving a little gap between the winding (imo) helps to keep more tension on the belt and, if there is some shifting of the belt, it must shift a greater distance before it laps. For me, lapping has been THE problem so this is what I'm trying to correct.Tom

12. 
    user-259615 | Apr 13, 2009 09:42pm | #25

    Thank you, I'll bear that in mind next time I'm sanding.
    Regards from England
    Steve
    Space is more valuable than the junk that occupies it.

    Woodworking jig DVDs and The Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig from http://www.workshopessentials.com