Getting reading to build some box beams out of 1×6’s. I know I’ll need to rabbitt two edges, but can’t remember which way is recommended. Do I rabbitt the bottoms of the two side pieces or both edges of the bottom piece?
I’m seen them assembled on a job sight before, but it’s been a couple of years.
Rabbet both edges of the bottom piece -- makes the box beam look like a solid piece of wood when looked at from below.
Freud makes a great lock miter bit; you can't even tell there is a seem unlike the rabbet method.
I have been thinking about that lock mitre bit but wondered about the alignment. Appearantly, it has worked well for you. Is it easy?
As long as your boards are relatively straight and true you should be golden. You'll have to use a router mounted in a router table. Use featherboards or something similar to assure an evenly routed edge when you run it through the table.
mtnfreak, I'll order one and test it on my new router table/cabinet I just built.
I think it kinda depends on what outcome you want. Traditionaly, you boxed in your beams to show your neighbors your affluence and good taste (Starkiss). However, some appear to use boxed beams to simulate a real beam...and may rough hewn the surface.
The traditional approach is to T&G the bottom into the sides and slightly recess the bottom board (1/16"). Either approach, I'd lock in the bottom piece to prevent warping.
I'll be using quarter sawn white oak, with either a natural or carmel danish oil followed by a wipe on poly.I'll probably use 2x6's on the ceiling to attach the sides of the beam. The reason I was leaning towards a rabbitt joint verses biscuts is it creates an index for easy assembly.I hadn't thought of tongue and grove or a locking mitre, they would also create an index for easy assembly and give better protection against warping.The main reason I'm going with box beams is the ceiling was sheated with wafer board and thus all the seams show. I'll be covering some of the seams with the box beams and then the remaining ones I'll be covering with a flat 1x4 with some type of profile on the edges and the ends butted up against the box beams. Should create a more refined appearance without putting up a new ceiling.My drywall guy thought we could do some type of textured ceiling, probably like a SW stucco pattern on the wafer board for an even better looking ceiling. We wouldn't have to tape the seams and they would probably fail anyway with the waferboard base. But the seams wont matter anyway if I box and cover them.I'm definately working outside the box on this project.
That's exactly like my house. OSB sheathing instead of drywall, and box beams that were made with miters. Unless you reach up there and tap on them you' never know it is a hollow false beam. That's why I suggested the miter method.
Good luck either way.
It sounds like a great plan. The one minor issue may be the darkening impact on the room with colored beams overhead. You may want to try and simulate the situation before final decisions are made. Good luck
Hi musick ,
What type of material 1 X 6 what ? what lengths do you need ?
As BG said what do you want to end up with , paint , clear , stained ?
I have made many hundreds of feet of various sized box beams and had the best results with splined mitre joints . I have always done mine on the ts . Leave the 45° angle and cut the slots with boards on edge.
I have rabetted them as well as dadoed , it all works .
good luck dusty
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