I recently got an 8 ft slab of bowling lane that I was planning on turning into a dining table and I have a few things bouncing around my head that I wanted to get a few opinions on. I’m handy around the house and this is really my first serious adventure into making furniture outside of some basic 2×4 end tables from online plans.
1. How would you recommend I support it? Right now my idea is to make a frame out of angle iron that will be mounted underneath and use hairpin legs. Do I need to worry about the slab separating? I saw someone else online who did something similar and they took a piece of aluminum all the way across the bottom and attached every board.
2. I have the section that includes the pin locations and want to keep that look. Should I keep the plastic inlays in or use epoxy to simulate the look? Some are already out and I’m leaning towards epoxy.
3. I want the same glossy look that a bowling lane would normally have and was thinking about bar epoxy for the finish. Is there a better finish to use? The finish is still on the slab and my fiance wants to keep a stamp that is on there from last time the lanes were re-finished so I’m not sure how much of the existing finish I can take off without taking off that stamp.
Thank you so much for any help you all can provide and I’m looking forward to tackling this project!
Replies
If the existing finish is in good condition, then keep it. Just do what ever minor repairs are needed, sand it lightly with a fine grit (220 or finer) and add your finish of choice. You should probably do a little research to find out what the original finish is so that you can avoid potential adhesion problems. However, I think you are limited to a film finish of some sort. Since the original is a film finish (I think), a penetrating oil would not be appropriate.
The base can be anything you want it to be. Just be sure you allow for cross grain expansion/contraction. Attaching the slab solidly may cause it to split. Whether you use metal or wood, Screw the slab through elongated holes (cross grain) to allow for some movement. Or, use fasteners made for that purpose.
For the pin location markers, I would keep them if you can. You might try replacing the missing ones with epoxy dyed to match the color. Or, do some research to see if you can find some actual replacements somewhere.
Sweet score! How thick is it?
I made my workbench out of a shuffleboard table I took from a pub that was closing down. Sucker dressed to 3" thick. If yours is really heavy I would consider a base stronger than the hairpins. The first time you drag it a few inches the far legs might go Bambi on you.
I will have to do some research on the original finish and see what would work with that. The finish is okay but it was sitting outside for a little bit after the original owner cut it up.
I'm just worried on the markers that over time they may work up since a couple of them are already bubbling but that may just be since they were outside in the elements.
It's about 2.5" thick right now but I'm going to have to flatten the bottom a little bit. I hadn't even thought about the legs collapsing like that but what would you recommend instead? My fiance loves that look and if I can get something closer that is a little more stable then I will look at that.
How long will the final table be and how wide is it?
If you are not too concerned about originality and you are concerned about the plastic markers coming out, replace them. You could either use colored epoxy or dark wood plugs.
I agree that you should look for table legs that are sturdier than the typical hairpin legs. These look pretty sturdy:
http://www.remodelista.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img/sub/uimg/01-2013/hairpin-legs-534x700.jpg
Most any film finish can be glossy. I suspect that a good polyurethane would work fine after a light sanding of the original finish. Best to find out for sure first. If you will have any cut-offs, perhaps you could do some testing before doing the final. Maybe the person you got it from has some scraps you could use for this.
What is the "stamp" you are concerned about? Is it ink in the wood or in the finish? Is it embossed? A photo would help. How badly is the slab and finish weathered? Is the finish intact, cracked, flaking, etc?
So many things to consider here. Unfortunately, it all starts with an important question. Do you know how old the lane is? Bowling lane construction changed over the years. Old lanes were made of maple and pine. Newer lanes have lots of synthetic stuff in them. Knowing that may help you pick a finish. Also the old lanes used walnut inlays for the points. You may want to consider that as an option for your refurb.
It sounds like you have the far end of the lane, so you likely have a section made of maple. Older lanes are maple on the ends and pine in the middle. Most lanes are top coated with polyurethane. That has to be sanded off before you put your finish on. The bottom is also likely to be a mess and need sanding.
If you decide to put a decorative edge on your table, keep in mind that bowling alley can be full of nails and such.
I think the bar epoxy would look really nice. It would mimic the urethane covered with oil look it had while in use. I find System 3 Mirror Coat really easy to work with.
Your slab should weigh roughly 329 lbs. assuming is is the standard 42 inches wide and 2.5 inches thick and 8 feet long and made of maple. So a substantial leg structure is required.
So the final dimension is probably going to be 8ft. The guy I bought the slab from cut them long since he knew people would have to square them up.
The lanes were installed in 1940 from what I can remember of my conversation with the seller. The area where the pins were set was a little lighter so now I'm wondering if there is some pine in there. I will have to grab a picture tonight and see what you guys think.
The markers are thin plastic discs. The best replacement I found online was 1/2" thick so epoxy may be the way to go unless I can get the holes routed out to put new markers in.
The hairpins you linked were what I was thinking. 1/2" 3 rod style were the sturdiest I could find but looks like they can support about 240 lbs max:https://support.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk/article/76-how-much-weight-can-hairpins-hold May have to rethink how I'm going to support it
Thank you all for the help and suggestions!
They are held together with ring shank nails and angle iron underneath.
If yours is missing the angle iron, you need to replace it with something.
They are made of either pine or maple. Easy to tell by looking at the grain and color.
I've had some experience with it making a work bench. The ends are a little unsightly so I wrapped it with a 3x3 apron.
There isn't going to be any expansion to speak of because it is laminated and extremely well seasoned.
Probably not necessary, but here, but had to do over, I would have taken mine apart, removed all the nails, and glued the strips back together. Mostly because drilling holes for holdfasts and missing a nail seems almost impossible.
If you can find a shop with a wide belt sander, I would strongly consider resurfacing the top it will eliminate any bumps and you can start with a virgin surface to refinish.
My shuffleboard bench had T nails every 10" or so. I drilled 26 dog holes with a forstner bit and cut in 2 record holdfast rings and didn't hit a one. Never gave it a thought at the time, but the blind squirrel principal says I'm a lucky boy.
Mine is 30" wide and has about a 3/8" swing in width winter to summer. I must have built it in summer because the breadboard ends are flush right now. I pinned the fronts so expansion is forced to the rear and my front edge stays true.
One other thing I forgot to mention, bowling alleys are typically made by laminating 1 to 2 inch thick pieces face to face. So what you see is actually the side grain. Given that wood expands across the grain, I respectfully disagree with bilyo about allowing for wood movement. I don't think it will be much of a concern for you. For the most part, your table may get thicker (by 1/100th of an inch or so), but probably not wider or longer.
That top will move as though it was a solid quartersawn board of the finished size. The wood does not know it is "on edge".
Beasley is correct movement will not be an issue.
Bowling alley lanes typically have T shaped angle irons screwed into the bottom to prevent cupping.
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