My Dad is relatively new at turning. He is turning out some nice stuff. Mostly canes and bowls. He has been saving a large chunk or block I should say of some sort of burled wood that has some spalted in it. Looks awesome. He had payed dearly for this block and didn’t want to mess it up so waited until his proficiency on the lathe had gotten better.
So here we are, he’s better. He screwed the “doohicky” to the block and turned the outside of the bowl. Looked great. Went to take the screws out and a few of then snapped off at the wood surface. Cheap azz chinese screws. After I heard the story I told him they do make something called a screw extractor. His method of extraction was to drill many holes around the broken screws then dig them out. He the proceed to chuck up the block with the little piece of round tendon on the “bottom” of the block. All’s well and starts turning the inside of the bowl. As soon as his tool hits the areas that has been chipped out from the screw removal all hell breaks loose……To the point where the “tendon” rips clean and the whole blank goes flying and really messes the outside of the bowl.
The out side can be repaired again. Just a smaller bowl that he started with. What can he do about the inside? Forstner bit a large circled area inside the damaged area? What about the problem with the screws? What type in the future?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Semper Fi
Replies
Gee wizz !!! Marines sure have their problems. USN to the rescue. Don't feel too bad, I've had screws break off on a face plate too. But now I make sure to use Stainless Steel screws and drill pilot holes and lube the screws with Akum pucky or bees wax.
I would be tempted to remount the bowl back on the face plate, and return the outside and cutting in a dove tail socket that will accept A Nova Chuck. I do most all of my bow insides on a Nova Chuck. Once mounted on the Nova Chuck I would mark the broken screw location well and plunge in with a parting tool about 1/4" away or better on both sides of the screw and cut out a V shaped ring with the screw in it. Now your ready to continue the inside.
The bowl books by Raffin, Conover and Darlow are all very good books and well worth the $$$..
FYI My Many greats ago Uncle McAllister was an Officer on the USS Philadelphia, One of the Ships that took you boys to the Shores of Tripoli.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I will tell him about the stainless screws. Wax and predrilling tips. Thanks.
Funny, he too is a Marine, twenty years. Can't teach him squat!! LOL
Hmmm, the parting tool. He can rechuck and do a dove tail socket. He prefers the attachment method where there is a part that sticks out rather than a round socket. Bothers him that there is a round groove on the bottom of the projects. Like someone is going to see it. Sorry, but I don't know the nomenclature names of the different parts of the wood turning jargon...... Any way, he has already removed the screws, and this is where the problem lays. The inside is all hacked up from screw removal and the bowl gouge is grabbing all the different edges inside the bowl which is what threw it across the room in the first place. Now he is pissed and doesn't know what to do.
Semper Fi
I would probably attack it very gingerly with a 1/2 " round nose scraper. Working with the tool rest as close as possible, within 1/2 ". With the top of the scraper just above center at about a 2 -5 degree nose down attitude.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Thanks Bruce, I'll let him know what you said including the Marine razzing. LOL
Semper Fi
Bruce,
Not to highjack this thread but I gotta' tell you this one.
A very dear close friend of the family, a young lady , is a flight instructor for Navy helos in San Diego. She was assigned to transport a group of Marines and at one point one of them spotted her and made a comment about the Navy & women.
She, of course outranked almost all in the group, promptly reminded him what Marine stood for:
My A-- Rides In Navy Equipment.
No more comments heard.
...a bad day at the beach is better than a good day anywhere else... :)
Edited 10/11/2006 2:36 pm by oldbeachbum
No more comments heard.
Crickets in the back ground anybody?..........
Semper Fi
Update......
I told dad about the screws, wax and predrilling. Also told him to use a 1/2" scraper to get around the damaged areas. He is going to start doing those items and or procedures. He however question using the parting tool to remove screw and couldn't quite picture how to do this. After he explained it to me I have to agree with him unless we both don't understand the procedure you stated.
If the wood is chucked to the Nova, which he does have, and the screws are around the circumference of the wood and you used a parting tool, and the wood is spinning at a certain rpm you would have to chase the screw. Get what I am saying? The screws are not in the dead center of the wood, they are around the center where the plate was attached. Could you clarify? Thanks.
Semper Fi
No problem. 1. With the bowl in the nova Chuck put the tool rest up near the face and manually spin the bowl and use a pencil to draw a circle where the screws are located, hopefully they are in the same circle pattern. Then with the lathe running and about 1/2 inch on both sides of that pencil line plunge in with the parting tool to cut out the bad area, which will give you a V shaped ring with the screws still in it. Your not really chasing the screws, Just cutting out a ring that they're in.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I think I understand what you are saying. Cut all the screws out at once in the cone or V shape groove. We were thinking you meant each individual screw with the parting tool. I bet this will get a laugh or two!!
Semper Fi
Edited 10/11/2006 9:49 pm ET by Jarhead
Jarhead,
The books mentioned deal with turning off the foot of a bowl as the last step (after the inside is fully turned and finished). This lets you use a dovetail chuck and then fix the foot to how you like it.
The process these days of comercial chuck usually uses "Cole Jaws"
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/jawsets2.htm
I have seen but not tried some home made versions that were very clever.
Given his profesional training, you might mention that turning the inside of a bowl, or any rough surface, is not a Marine Assault. Sneak up on it, suitable shavings from the round nosed scraper mentioned earlier might be 1/16 wide.
Dave
(ex Australian light infantry)
PS for you jarheads. I recall reading an autobiography of a WWII Marine scout years ago and it has some ideas I could use in current discussions at work. Does anyone know what this book might be so I can hunt down a copy.
Thanks
PS for you jarheads. I recall reading an autobiography of a WWII Marine scout years ago and it has some ideas I could use in current discussions at work. Does anyone know what this book might be so I can hunt down a copy.
Thanks
I didn't have a clue but did a search and found this below. If this isn't what you were looking for check out the link, there are many sniper books listed.
U.S.M.C. Scout Sniper WW2 and Korea by Peter R. Senich. Thorough history combined with numerous combat and training photos of Marine scout-snipers in action. Formed to eliminate the Japanese jungle fighter, the scout-sniper experiment was a solid success. Great account of the men, training, equipment and campaigns. Hardbound, 240 pages.2J4710 USMC S/S WW2 and Korea $44.95
http://www.warbooks.com/snipe.html
Semper Fi
Dave, thanks for the information, I will pass it along to my dad. I also need to give him those book names previously listed. I picked up one of ya'lls flags when I was in the Middle East a while back. I don't remember the name of the ship but it was docked in Bahrain and I traded flags with them. Ya'll had some pretty wimmens on that ship........ :-)
Semper Fi
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