Replies

1. 
   Midnight | May 08, 2004 03:59am | #1

   If push came to shove, I'd cut as close to a line as poss with a jigsaw and straight edge, then clamp both boards together, reset the straight edge and use that to guide a router with a long straight bit to equalise the length of both boards.

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

2. 
   SCFrankland | May 08, 2004 04:06am | #2

   Handsaw. Use a square to make a line across and down one side of the board and cut the line. The secret is to make nice long strokes and sight down the blade as you are cutting. Practice on some scraps and you will be surprised how easy it is.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Scott's WOODWORKING Website

   "He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."

1. 
   scooter1 | May 08, 2004 05:30am | #3

   Get a straight piece of wood. Set it square to the board with a framing square. Use the board as a guide for a skill saw. Cut the piece upside down, as you will get some blowout on the top. So good side down. Tape the cut line with blue masking tape.

   This is what I do.

   There are also commerical guides, like clamp 'n guide available that do the same trick.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   nu2knots | May 08, 2004 06:09am | #4

   I have used my mitre saw, which also only cuts 6' or so, on wider boards by making sure the fence is square then clamping a stop block an inch or 2 longer than I want my final piece away from the blade. My stop block is 6-8" long and I try to square it to the blade also. Butt the piece against the block and cut, flip and cut again. Do the same with the second piece. Move the stop block to the exact length you desire and repeat on the other end of each board. I have found as long as I keep the board tight against the fence and stop block, the ends come out square and the 2 pieces are the exact same length. My mitre saw table sits flush with the outfeed tables on both sides so the boards don't fall away and it helps them to butt against the stop  block securely. 

4. 
   bones | May 08, 2004 06:12am | #5

   Try the luber yard where you will buy the wood. Most of them will do this for free or a little extra. Final fall back could be the old fashon hand saw. Go slow and use a framing square to get a good line. You could try a rental store for a circular saw. Good luck. 

1. 
   wendy1 | May 08, 2004 04:07pm | #6

   HI Guys,

   Thanks for the tips. I know this is hard to believe but I don't have a hand saw. But I do own a clamp'n guide and a router. One of these days I might splurge on a skill saw. I'll have to use my jigsaw for now and cut as close to the line as possible and then finish up using the router.   I guess my flush trimming bit will do Not sure if I have a straight router bit. Think mine is a spiral bit and I'm not sure if it's a down spiraling bit or an up spiraling bit.

   Wendy

1. 
   SCFrankland | May 08, 2004 08:39pm | #7

   A spiral bit will work as long as you use a backer board so that the router doesn't blow out the end of the board when you are making your finish cut.Scott C. Frankland

   Scott's WOODWORKING Website"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."

5. 
   Tao | May 09, 2004 01:36am | #8

   Cut halfway through on the miter saw, then turn the board over (not end for end, just flip it) and line your cut up carefully, and cut the rest.  Works like a charm.

   Michael R