Bosch 4410 slider cuts with an arc
Good Morning,
I have a Bosch 4410 sliding miter saw, and have a problem with the straightness of wide cuts. Thought you may have some insight, as I remember that you have the same saw. When cutting 8″ plywood (pushing, sliding the blade away from me), the cuts have an arc to them. This shows up as the material contacting my reference straight edge at the beginning and end of the cut, with about 1/32″ or more of light showing in the middle. Is there an adjustment for this? Wondering if I need a full kerf blade for the saw…
Thanks,
John
BTW, we have you Washington weather here in CT this year!
Replies
Hi, CD. My Bosch is a regular CMS, my sliding saw is a Makita. There are those who will insist you need a full-kerf blade on a slider. I am dubious, but don't have any facts to argue with.
How are you stabiilizing your stock while you push the blade through? Are you using anything approaching a death-grip on the handle that pushes the blade through? I am speculating that you might (a) not have the stock perfectly stable and/or (b) be creating flexion of the blade or movement of the head somehow.
I'll get Sarge over here, he can help methinks.
I am holding the piece down with hand pressure. I could see if locking it down with the provided hold down works.Thanks!John
I've had a few SCMS, and the 10" Bosch is one I still have. My gut says check the slides to make sure the bushings arent a tad loose. Thats my first thought. Second is operator force. You shouldn't be pushing very hard, just gliding it through.
As to thin vs thick, I use (I'm going to spell this so I dont get ####) M a t s u s h i t a blades and they're all thin kerfs. Going on year 8 of nothing but in the sliders.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
Has your saw been transported, bumped, banged, etc. ?
These saws are great for carpenters, where true precision cuts are usually not an issue.
But they are more fragile than you might think, so you should check the fence, and as another poster suggested the bushings on the slide.
If you are using the blade that came with the saw, does it need sharpening?
I don't think thin kerf vs. regular kerf is an issue, as long as the blade is specifically designed for a mitre saw. But --- any combo blade (that's sharp) should render a decent cut.
Before you do anything else, I would change the blade (assuming you have another of the same size), and see what happens with your cut.
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