Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 23, 2002 06:28am | #1

   I'm not an electrician, but have been reading in prep for adding 220V to my garage/shop.  I think you need have the wires within a box.  Since the outlet box is already there, I think you would take the outlets out of the box, do the wire-nut thing within the box, and then put a solid cover on it (as opposed to the cover with the outlet holes).

   Caveat: As one of the regular posters always says, never take electrical advice from the internet.  Who me? ;-)

   
   

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   Edited 3/22/2002 11:30:36 PM ET by forest_girl

2. 
   sschefer | Mar 23, 2002 06:33am | #2

   If the outlet is electrically sound and nothing is plugged in then there is not too much that can go wrong that wouldn't go wrong with any other outlet in the house. If you think it might be bad then you should call an electrician and have it checked out rather than trying to disable it. It just might be on a three way switched circut and you may cause more harm than good.

   Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?

1. 
   sschefer | Mar 23, 2002 06:35am | #3

   All right forest_girl, are you reading my mind again......

   Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 23, 2002 06:42am | #4

   Great Minds and all that stuff ;-)

   BTW, do you talk to yourself often? double-grin

1. 
   sschefer | Mar 23, 2002 06:54am | #6

   Yeah.. do you.

   LOL

   Wait, stop talking about me.Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?

3. 
   oxmach | Mar 23, 2002 06:42am | #5

   The way I see it, if the outlet has been properly terminated, that is to code, insulation at scrwe, no marks on the copper ect.  you are better off leaving in place.. Wire nuts are more like to fail than a solid termination.   My opinon only, local code may dictate otherwise.

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Mar 23, 2002 07:22am | #7

   In my area, code doesn't allow you to cover electrical boxes with built-in cabinets.   You have to be able to get into any box.    The only solution I know is to punch a hole in the cabinet to allow access to the box after the cabinets are installed.   If you don't like to look at the hole in the cabinet, you are allowed to add a screw-on cover.  But you must be able to remove the cover to gain access to the box.

1. 
   Seth_Frankel | Mar 23, 2002 03:38pm | #8

   If it's freestanding then it's not an issue. If it's permanently built-in and the customer doesn't want an access door then alert him that he'll need to verify code and have an electrician make it to code if an alteration is required. Have the owner signoff that he understands that he's resposible for this aspect of the project. Don't do the work yourself even if it's as simple flipping the breaker and terminating the outlet. It's not worth the guessing game as you'll be held liable. Your client will understand that you're not an electrician and not able to take on that responsibility.

   Most likely this outlet is not the only outlet on the circuit. This means that you've got a hot connection in the box regardless of whether of not you remove the plugs and install a blank. Don't mess with it.

   Best,

   Seth

   Edited 3/23/2002 8:39:44 AM ET by Seth Frankel

5. 
   BernieMaas | Mar 23, 2002 06:08pm | #9

   My understanding of code says that any termination (as to an outlet) or splicing must be in a box with the apprpriate cover and that box must be accessible.  The movable bookcase as one writer suggests might be the answer - or an opening in the bookcase might be another solution.  Good luck.

   Bernie Maas

6. 
   Adrian | Mar 24, 2002 07:48pm | #10

   Canadian code definitely prohibits you from covering an electrical outlet.....there has to be access; if it's a built in, I would bring it into the cabinet. If the cabinet is freestanding, different story.

   cabinetmaker/college instructor. Cape Breton, N.S

7. 
   JDPiatt | Mar 24, 2002 08:58pm | #11

   Hey Don,

   You've received the right advice in the previous messages, especially about codes in your area.  As someone who does residential wiring, part time, I would also caution you against getting into the house electrical system unless you are proficient in dealing with the unknown conditions of the wire.  Now, I know it's not rocket science, but I can think of many outlets, switches etc. that were a nightmare due to wire age, last person in the box, or whatever.  If the wiring is relatively new, chances are that you won't be dealing with fragile wires.  FWIW.

   John

1. 
   DonStephan | Apr 27, 2002 03:57am | #12

   Having rather extensive residential wiring experience, I suggested to the client re-routing the wiring rather than cut holes in the bookcases, and they accepted. Had to open several holes in the drywall behind where the bookcases would be located. Made neat rectangles, when done replaced the cut out drywall using 3" x 4" blocks of 3/4" plywood as cleats screwed to back of the cut and uncut drywall. Had to make two wire nut connections to existing wiring, added single gang box above outer bookcase units as in picture below. Drew map of before and after wiring so wiring could be returned to original if needed sometime in future.

   
1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 27, 2002 04:21am | #13

   Don, your pic must be several times the size of the space available on our screens to show it.  Humbly suggest you crop out unnecessary stuff, and then resize it to 35-50%. :)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)