I want to bond two surfaces of UHMW polyethylene to each other. Anyone had any experience with joining them (as in glue not joinery)?
Thanks
BB
I want to bond two surfaces of UHMW polyethylene to each other. Anyone had any experience with joining them (as in glue not joinery)?
Thanks
BB
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Replies
UHMW is an absolute pita to glue. Most people screw it (or say screw it). I've heard of people having success with epoxy but only after the UHMW was heat-treated first -- kind of a hit-or-miss proposition. 3M makes a double-sided tape for holding it in place temporarily. If anyone makes a specialized glue for the purpose they'd be a good bet. Not much help, I'm afraid
Jim
Jim,More help than nothing. I want to create a an exact 1" thick safety fence but all that is available is slightly over 3/4 and or less unless I order $25,000 worth of material. I want to bond a 1/4 to a 3/4+ and mill down to 1". The screws might be a great idea.ThanksBB
McMaster Carr sells a 1" thick piece, 12" wide, 36" long for about $72.Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
I'll check it out. That wide -must weigh in like purple heart :)
ThanksBB
Some info here that might help.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
These folks have 1" sheet in various sizes. Prices look pretty good. Use the drop down box to get the size that best works for you.
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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
Thanks for both the leads. Looks promising.BB
No idea, but would contact cement work?
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Just for a lark, I tried it but not quite so good..
BB
I'd go for the inch thick, if at all possible. Screws work, but the job can be fiddly. If you don't get the pilot hole just right, the UHMW tends to balloon a bit at the exit hole when you drive the screw in, leaving a small gap between the two surfaces joined. Lovely stuff.
Jim
Yeah, I thought about the bulge factor-defeats the purpose of what I wanted it for. Gotten some good leads here for 1" so I think I'll go that route. Looked at the 3m - what with the cost, the app;ication, the etching... too much hassle.ThanksDoc
Countersink the backside of the hole. Also don't drill a pilot hole first. The UHMW has tendency to grab the bit when holes are being enlarged.Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Thought of that. But if you countersink front and back of a quarter-inch piece, or even a half-inch, there ain't going to be much left to grip.
Jim
Actually, now that you mention it. The quarter inch thick holes should have clearance holes and countersinks. So there should be no flair out on the back side. I have put a countersink in the bottom piece to allow the top to flair into. Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
I hope you know that this stuff is prone to warping. however it can be dressed with either hand tools or power easily.
The chemical nature of polyethylene means that you're not going to find a glue which will give you a reliable bond.
I've seen it being welded using hot air guns and a stick and the welds were as strong as the original material - we're talking about chemical tanks here.
One thing you could try as a last resort is to weld two sheets along the outside edge. Use a 25 Watt iron and run the bit in a zig-zag pattern across the join. This melts the plastic and fuses the pieces together. If you don't overheat the plastic will not go brittle.
I have successfully repaired 3 baby chairs and some toys like this.
I keep thinking: "Maybe this doesn't work for this application, or someone would have suggested it". Loctite makes a Super Glue for All Plastics. I picked it up last weekend for my bicycle helmet at Home Depot. It's 2 parts & the front of the pack says best for plastic to plastic and plastic to other material. The back says "Advanced Adhesive System for super strong rapid bonding. Works on all-plastics/all-materials including hard to bond polyethylene and polypropylene. No mixing required. Simply prime and glue." I tried to find it on Loctite's website with no luck. It says the reorder # is: 01-34925-01. You may need more than one pack because it's rather small. I'm an accountant, not a plastics engineer, so you'll have to judge for yourself. Like I said, I may be totally off base.
Incidentally, for you bicyclists, I used this to bond the velcro pad back on the styrofoam lining of my helmet & it seems to have worked great. I've often had problems with that all-important chin strap velcro coming un-bonded.
Interesting and definitely worth a try. I'll be looking for it.As you indicated there is very little info available. The only useful page I found is http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-68959-Loctite-Super-Glue-All-Plastics-4ml.html
Yep, that's the one.
Grant,
Thanks for the tip about gluing the velcro pad inside a bicycle helmet. Mine always come loose at this point and I've had to buy a new helmet twice now because I couldn't get anything to stick the velcro back down. It gets greasy and sweaty in there and nothing seems to work. I'll try the product you suggested..
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Been there, done that! Glad I could help. Just be careful to put the pad where you want it. When it makes contact, you can't move it.
Grant
WHY is one inch so important?
And Brass screws work well!
Edited 9/19/2008 12:21 am by WillGeorge
It's for a set up piece - ease of measurement.
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