Replies

1. 
   ak | Aug 16, 2009 12:23am | #1

   Could these be due to glue residue? Were there glue joints on this piece? Also when you say "pores" are you referring to the end grain? Were the rings light or dark in color?

   Also, how old is the linseed oil? If it's really old it may have broken down.

   Adam King Studio

   Fine Furniture and Antique Restoration

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 16, 2009 02:29am | #2

   You say you applied a thin coat to the walnut.  How long did you let it penetrate and how did you wipe off the oil that remained on the surface? 

   Rings around pores from oil that had penetrated pores and then bled back and cured on the surface. 

   I'm not sure I understand the dark and light spots "in the finish".  With the oil you shouldn't have had any finish on the surface to collect dust, etc. if that is what you have.  I'm just guessing the problem was related to not fully wiping off the oil, but be sure to let us know if my guess was off base. 

3. 
   roc | Aug 16, 2009 03:14am | #3

   I have been warned by others that linseed oil alone causes the walnut to go quite dark and boring and gets rather black over time.

   A truly GREAT book to get fairly cheep on amazon etc is Adventures in Wood Finishing by George Frank

   http://www.amazon.com/Adventures-Wood-Finishing-Charonne-woodworking/dp/091880406X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=booksqid=1250381398&sr=1-1

   He would probably have you wash it all down with paint thinner and then remove the glue/what not and start over. I realize linseed is under french polish but it takes the shellac to bring out the beauty of the wood. The linseed helps but alone on walnut it is a disaster.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

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   Edited 8/15/2009 8:14 pm by roc

4. 
   kellyanderson | Aug 16, 2009 07:51am | #4

   I like blo under shellac. I have never had the problems that you have described - do you have a picture? I usually put on a pretty good coat and try to keep it wet for 5-10 min. and then wipe it off and let it dry for a week or so before the topcoat. Good luck

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 16, 2009 07:07pm | #5

   BLO will bleed back oil from the pores of the wood as it cures. After the initial wiping, you should continue to go back and re-wipe every 15-20 minutes until it stops. Then let the BLO dry/cure for at least 24 hours before applying a clear coat.

   You might be able to salvage the finish by rubbing the surface with 3/0 steel wool and mineral spirits. Rub in the direction of the grain and then wipe off the gunk with lots of clean paper towels. Let it dry overnight and see how it looks. If the "rings" are gone, you can proceed with your clear coat. It the rings are still there, you will have to use a chemical paint remover and remove all the existing finish.

   Howie.........
1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 16, 2009 10:15pm | #6

   Howie, this might be a good place to recommend the synthetic steel wool over the actual steel, just to avoid any trapped shards with still open pore in the walnut.  I think you could use either maroon or grey pads in this context.  If you take care to clean the surface well before applying another finish coat, then the real steel works just fine. 

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 17, 2009 06:05pm | #7

   You're right Steve. The maroon Scotchbrite is about equal to 3/0 steel wool and should work just fine. A non-woven abrasive pad also lasts a lot longer than steel wool.Howie.........