Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 27, 2008 04:12pm | #1

   It's not exactly the solvent that caused the problem, it is the "binder", a lacquer or glue like component that holds the material together.  And what you are seeing is quite like the effects of glue left on the surface.  I suspect you are going to need to strip the stain and likely refill the nail holes.  With plywood you really don't have the depth of veneer to sand off this surface glue so chemical stripper may be your only real choice.   I doubt that is what you wanted to hear but I think it is the hard reality. 

   It is generally better to not fill the nail holes until after staining and applying at least the first top coat.  That makes matching the color easier and eliminates the blotch problem. 

   There isn't really a good "stainable" filler as much as manufacturer's would like it to be true.  You have found one of the problems.  It could be avoided--one solution is to nail through tape so that the binder doesn't get on the surface.  It also automatically "overfills" the holes so that when the filler shrinks it still remains filled so you can gently sand it flush.  The other problem is that often the stain doesn't really take the same way as the surrounding wood leaving a less than perfect match. 

1. 
   chrisbrit | Mar 27, 2008 08:23pm | #5

   Steve,

   Thank you for both the explanation and the solution. The filler was designed to match the red oak so once it was on and sanded smooth, invisible until stained.

   Most of the face frames will have doors attached (which I have not stained yet) and so the only ones I really have to work on are the cabinets which I planned as open display shelves. I may even see if I can remove the affected facing and replace it. But it was glued and well as nailed in place.

   Christine

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 27, 2008 09:12pm | #7

   One other thing.  It's a good idea to wipe down pieces before staining with naptha (or mineral spirits).  Not only does that catch some dust, it also reveals problems with glue smears or your problem with the filler. 

2. 
   hammer1 | Mar 27, 2008 04:54pm | #2

   Red oak is an open grain species. When you use a nail hole filler, you have to be careful the filler only goes in the nail hole, not on the surface. This may mean using a toothpick or something small to apply. Solvents evaporate, they shouldn't cause any problems. When you sand filler, you can't just sand the area, you need to sand the entire surface, especially with plywood. The sanded area will not take stain the same as unsanded.

   On utility work such as kitchen cabinets and trim, color putty is a good choice. You stain the work, apply one coat of finish, then fill holes. The putty is soft and excess buffs off with a rag. After filling you apply your last top coats to seal the putty. The color putty comes in many colors, it can be kneaded together with other colors for a good match, when needed. Minwax makes some you can find at a borg.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   chrisbrit | Mar 27, 2008 08:25pm | #6

   Hi,

   Thank you for your input. The filler was invisible until the stain touched it and so I had no idea it would come back to haunt me. Your suggestions are very helpful.

   Thanks,

   Christine

3. 
   blewcrowe | Mar 27, 2008 05:29pm | #3

   I don't know if this will apply to your situation, but I did something like this once, and here was my solution.

   I got doweling, very small stuff, that would match up with the filled holes sizewise (or slightly bigger, actually). Got the matching drill bit, drilled em out (only like 1/4" deep), popped a dab of glue on the end and put dowels in the holes, cut them off after drying, flush sanded, then finished.

   Came out looking even better that the original.

1. 
   chrisbrit | Mar 27, 2008 08:16pm | #4

   Thanks but the blotches are way bigger than the holes!

   Chris