Replies

1. 
   genec | Jun 15, 2008 04:01am | #1

   try a sanding sealer on the blood wood first

   I have trouble imagining the two going together

1. 
   david7134 | Jun 16, 2008 02:43am | #2

   Thanks,

   I will post a picture later as it is turning out to be one of my better projects.

1. 
   genec | Jun 16, 2008 03:23am | #4

   you could also try that liquid sandpaper wipe it down before assembly that will remove the oils

2. 
   Rich14 | Jun 16, 2008 03:08am | #3

   David,

   I too am finding it hard to picture pine and bloodwood working well together. If nothing else, sanding a softwood and a hardwood are two slightly different techniques and the effort needed to get the bloodwood smooth may result in excessive abrasion of the pine. But good luck with that.

   re: "try a sanding sealer on the blood wood first"

   Shellac IS a sanding sealer. In fact, it's one of the best you can use. But in this case the alcohol is dissolving dye in the bloodwood, allowing it to diffuse into, or wash over the pine. Sometimes, sealing dissimilar woods involves painstakingly "painting" a sealer on one or the other first. Inlaying involves this kind of problem very often.

   There are several things you can try.

   With a small "artist's brush" you can try carefully painting shellac on the pine alongside the bloodwood, as tightly as possible, but not into it. Use several applications, before trying shellac overall again.

   A water-borne finish may work as a sealer as the bloodwood dye may be insoluble in water. This will raise the grain, needing gentle sanding, then probably a second light application.

   While the bloodwood bleeds in alcohol, its dye may not dissolve in lacquer thinner, meaning lacquer could be your sealer.

   Rich

1. 
   david7134 | Jun 16, 2008 04:21am | #5

   The project is a cutting board. I used the pine on end so that the cutting surface is end grain. The blood wood in glued in after cutting the board at a diagonal, thus strips of blood wood in-between the end grain. I then wrapped the whole thing in walnut and beveled the edges so that the engrain and walnut were both showing from the side. I tried the shellac as I said and the alcohol caused diffusion of the red substance. I sanded it out with a drum sander and applied butcher  block finish. This worked and sealed the project without any significant bleed.

   My major concern was that I am planning a desk with blood wood inlay and will use either mahogany or cherry. I could have the same problem with these woods as the pine.

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 16, 2008 12:59pm | #7

   I agree with Steve regarding use of bloodwood in a cutting board.I would never use a film finish for a cutting board, unless the piece is purely decorative. In fact, other than mineral oil, I would use no finish at all.Rich

1. 
   david7134 | Jun 16, 2008 08:42pm | #10

   Rich,

   I have never seen a commercial cutting board without a finish. As to which type, that is a matter of debate. I looked up shellac and felt that it is safe. The FDA in all its wisdom has not as yet approved it for use with food but I have used it for years in my own kitchen without problem.

   Butcher block finish is just that. It is approved by the FDA for use on butcher blocks which are a larger version of a cutting board.

   Understand that I have a significant knowledge of the FDA having worked several clinical trials. The organization is a sham and only approves something if you can live through drowning in the substance.

   Thus, although shellac is not approved, I could not find any reference to the toxic nature of this substance. The butcher block material is actually somewhat worse in the descriptions that you can find.

   Most clear finishes are fairly safe.

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 17, 2008 02:28am | #13

   David,My objection to shellac as a finish has nothing to do with toxicity. Dry shellac is perfectly safe. I cringe when bringing up the subject, but another prolific poster in this forum is very fond of telling people (as often as the opportunity presents) that shellac is often the coating on pharmaceuticals.My objection to shellac is that it is a film finish. I would have the same objection to any film finish on a cutting board, being that the finish will be visibly damaged, and look just terrible with any normal use of the board for, um, cutting. BTW, any dried/cured finish is non-toxic.An oil finish, soaked into the board will suffer no such damage. But again, the only oil finish I would use, if any, would be mineral oil.Rich

3. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 16, 2008 05:50am | #6

   Bloodwood in a cutting board??? MANY people have a serious reaction to bloodwood splinters. It may be prety, but I do not think it is a wise choice to use in a cutting board.
   SawdustSteve

1. 
   david7134 | Jun 16, 2008 08:35pm | #9

   First, I looked up the toxicology of blood wood and could not find any known reaction.

   Second, I have been using blood wood around the kitchen for years.

   Third, the piece is less than 1/4 inch in width and is not anywhere near the cutting point at the center of the board.

   As a physician (40 years experience) I have never seen a toxic reaction to wood except for walnut that causes an intense reaction to nasal mucosa and to some of the exotics that cause a dermatitis when sweat and saw dust mix. Before using any wood it is a good idea to check with several authorities which I routinely do.

1. 
   Jimma | Jun 16, 2008 08:49pm | #11

   I've had the sane problem with padauk bleeding into adjacent wood (pepper grinders) when using shellac. I don't think I solved the problem with another finish. You might try posting your question in the finishing section.

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 17, 2008 04:24am | #14

   Hi Dave... I won't call it an allergic reaction, but if I get a splinter from bloodwood and don't remove it immediately, the area of the splinter swells up, similar to a burn blister. My usual treatment is to puncture and drain the blister, then put on a antibiotic ointment and cover with a band-aid. Perhaps it's just my body chemistry, but now, as a general rule, I tend to stay away from this wood. SawdustSteve

1. 
   saschafer | Jun 17, 2008 04:47am | #15

   You also need to be careful about which particular "bloodwood" you're talking about. Like so many other tropical woods, the name "bloodwood" has been applied to at least three or four completely unrelated species that all happen to be deep red in color. Obviously, the reactions that one might have will depend upon which species is/are involved.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 17, 2008 06:58pm | #16

   Thanks for that information. I learn something new every day. I was not aware that there are several different types of 'bloodwood'. Now I've got to start researching them by their latin names. SawdustSteve

4. 
   brad805 | Jun 16, 2008 07:48pm | #8

   Did you sand the bloodwood?  I had the same problem with some bloodwood splines.   In the end, I choose a stain/finish that blended the colors of the various woods a bit to detract from this result.  If I ever do something similar again I will not sand and will use a very sharp chiesel and constantly use an air hose to get the bloodwood off the project.  I agree with the others that the bloodwood might not be a good choice for your project.

   Brad

1. 
   david7134 | Jun 16, 2008 08:50pm | #12

   Brad,

   My usual routine is to scrap and then sand to 220. I apply a finish, in the nature of a desk top I always apply a sanding sealer to fix the colors. I then will sand with 220 and apply the next series of finishes depending on the project. In between each application I sand with 320 until near the last application when I begin to wipe with steel wool.

   My problem as I previously stated is not with the choice of wood on a cutting board. It is with a project I am planning for a desk. I have not yet decided as to the use of blood wood or black wood on the desk top as an inlay. I have experienced bleed with turning bottle tops with both types of wood and am concerned as to using a finishing method that reduces the bleed from a highly colored wood when using porous surrounding material.