Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | May 10, 2009 06:35pm | #1

   My understanding is that 15,000 psi is pretty much the maximum you'd want. The tensioning of a blade depends very much on the strength of the saw's frame components, and a 10" saw won't have the strength a 14" saw (which isn't all that strong, generally, anyway -- not like the quality 18"+ saws).

   Do you have an owner's manual for your saw?  It might have the info you need.  I'm looking around online now.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   [email protected] | May 10, 2009 08:04pm | #2

   THANKS  biglar007

1. 
   forestgirl | May 10, 2009 08:18pm | #3

   For a small band saw like that, I would turn to Suffolk Machinery for blades.  Their Timberwolf blades are made of material designed for low tensioning.  Best (IMHO) to phone them and give them the length of blade, model of saw, and what kind(s) of cutting you want to do.  They will help you get the appropriate blade(s) and send you tensioning instructions (not done with a meter, but by what they call the "flutter test"). 

   Web site is:http://suffolkmachinery.com/contact.aspPhone number is:  (800) 234-7297 forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   [email protected] | May 10, 2009 11:22pm | #4

   THANKS  bl

2. 
   Eef | May 11, 2009 10:47pm | #5

   hey forest girl,

   flutter test? no meter, you say?  do tell f.g., how does one go about flutter testing one's band saw? do i have to buy anything?

   eef

1. 
   forestgirl | May 12, 2009 05:13am | #6

   Read all about it here.  Some people claim it works on blades other than the low-tension Timberwolf, but I don't know if that's valid.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   Eef | May 12, 2009 05:51pm | #7

   good morning jamie,

   thanks for the link. 

   eef

2. 
   JohnWW | May 12, 2009 05:54pm | #8

   Tension is highly overrated as a cause for band sawing problems, even though I contributed mightily to the fetish about it years ago. Especially for the kind of work typically being done on a 10" saw it is not likely to be a critical setting.

   For a wider blade just tighten the tensioning mechanism to around 75 percent of its maximum setting and you will be fine. By tightening to 75 percent you will be close to the highest tension the saw can achieve and you will still have some give in the spring which also serves as a shock absorber.

   On narrower blades I would use less tension mostly to protect the tires from getting scored by the blade. I would start a thin blade at a fairly low setting and watch to see if tire damage starts to show as you increase the tension and then do a bit of cutting. If a blade is cutting well at a lower setting then just leave the tension alone.

   Almost all sawing problems are caused by using the wrong blade for the job or having the right blade but it is dull.

   With due respect to those who use the flutter method, I have found through experimenting that the technique is very inconsistent and doesn't give any better results than just using the guidelines I posted above.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007

1. 
   forestgirl | May 12, 2009 07:00pm | #9

   "With due respect to those who use the flutter method, I have found through experimenting that the technique is very inconsistent and doesn't give any better results than just using the guidelines I posted above."  John, I would certainly prefer the "75% Method" since it's easier and faster.  But I have to ask, when you tried the Flutter Method, was it with a Timberwolf blade, or a blade made of more traditional material?

   On my particular saw (Grizzly 1019Z), I find that when I use the flutter test, the tension ends up being pretty much at the spot on the tension gauge that corresponds with the size of the blade, so I've been just using the gauge and make minor adjustments if necessary.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 13, 2009 04:51pm | #10

   I have little faith in a stock gauge. I have a smaller Jet that runs a dedicated 1/4" 6 tpi that the proper tension is shows just under 3/8". On my Steel City 18" I run a dedicated 3/4" Lennox bi-metal that the proper tension is around the 5/8" mark. I seriously doubt the spring size on the Jet would handle bi-metal or carbide well?

   But... bottom line is to find the correct tension for me I crank until the blade is tight enough their is literally no flex.. then back off two turns. Test with scrap and adjust up or down until the cut tells me I have found the bulls-eye which normally takes under 5 minutes. BTW... I don't use Timber-wolf blades but the way I find proper tension is similar to what they do.

   Frankly.. it is similar to what John recommends also. So... my thinking is all these methods are basically the same to give you some type of starting point. In the end observation of the cut after going up or down tells you to "lock it in" and go to work as you have reached the "promise land". ha.. ha...

   Regards...

   Sarge.. 

2. 
   [email protected] | May 15, 2009 02:33am | #11

   To everyone who replied to my querie...THANKS...biglar007