Replies

1. 
   Jimurock | May 05, 2009 05:53am | #1

   I use it when I can.  Mine's attached to the tall riving knife, so I can't use it on non-through cuts.  It gets rid of a lot of dust, but not all of it.  Some escapes back towards the operator, even though there's a flap there to prevent it.

   Jim

2. 
   zolton | May 05, 2009 02:23pm | #2

   I've got an overhead guard (Penn State) that hangs from the ceiling. It does work pretty well at keeping the dust inside the hood where it can be sucked up. However, it does not get anywhere near 100% of it. Certainly though it is a great improvement (in terms of dust collection) over running just a bare blade.

   The guard does get in the way somewhat, and any stock narrower than about 4 inches I have to push through with a long push stick. The push stick has to be about 24 inches long to reach way under the guard and then past the end of the blade. In that, the guard is less convenient than just running it bare. But I also like the fact that it is a "guard" as well as a dust collector. I expect that a piece of wood thrown up by the blade (a rare circumstance) would be at least deflected by the guard. Plus, the guard does keep my hands well away from the blade.

   One instance where the dust collection in this arrangement does not do well at all is when I'm trimming a little bit off the edge of a board. If the blade is only cutting half into the edge, for example, the dust shoots out from under the guard and gets all over the table. But that's also true (and even more so) when the blade is not covered by the guard. It's just part and parcel of that type of cut.

   In all I'm pretty happy with the performance of this blade guard. It comes on and off easily enough if I need to cut something tall, and it has cleaned up my shop air significantly. Plus it adds a measure of safety. The only drawback is the inconvenience of having it in the way when pushing stock through. But that just takes learning to manage it...

   Zolton 

    

   If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon

3. 
   bones | May 05, 2009 02:44pm | #3

   I have it.  I use the penn state guard.  It gets a majority of the dust and I use the microjig splitter so no conflicts.  The penn state guard comes with components to connect to your saw and attach to the floor or ceiling.  I've used in both configurations in three different houses now.  The excalibur is thicker material, but mine has performed well and was more economical.  The must be doing pretty good they cost about $50 more than when I got mine.  Take care

   http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TSGUARD.html

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 05, 2009 06:10pm | #4

   I use a Penn State shield but do not have the Penn State over-head system. I mount my shield (dust and gaurd) to the top of my splitter. I can move my fence right up to the blade as the piece that attaches the shield and splitter will hinge so the shield sits on top of the fence.

   My dust attachment connection to suction is home-made similar to the PS system but the shield is not controled by it's movement. That portion does nothing more that supply a 2 1/2" Shop Vac line to the shield. The hose can be slipped on and off the port easily.

   How much dust does it get.. just about all that doesn't get collected going down to the cabinet which has a 6" direct line for a cyclone connected to an en-larged 6" port on the saw.

   Sarge..

   
1. 
   philip_r | May 05, 2009 07:09pm | #5

   I use an excalibur.  I can say that it is amazing how much dust these things catch.  They will make you wonder how you ever worked without one.

    

   
1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 05, 2009 09:35pm | #6

   Nice set-up Tbag.. well.. there does seem to be some big, ugly, black blob in the middle of the picture but I am sure you can clean it up with some 409... hee.............

   Just kidding ya so you don't have to get up out of your seat with your fist swinging wildly.. ha... ha...

   Seriously... very nice.. spacious looking (I know that can be deciecing) shop.

   Sarge..

   Edited 5/5/2009 2:35 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

1. 
   philip_r | May 06, 2009 04:55am | #10

   lol, sarge.  You and your anti-sawstop ways! 

    

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 06, 2009 05:51am | #11

   Not really anti but... I do believe that everyone should have all the facts which include cons before making a decision in lieu of cherry picking the pros as gets done often. A coin has two sides...  I really have nothing against the saw itself.. but I do get annoyed if someone tells about all the wonderful things "his or her" so and so can do but conveniently doesn't mention the down-side. And that goes farther than just this saw we are talking about.

   That statement in not directed at you.. simply at anyone that does it and it does happen if you view several forums. I personally can't afford one as the one machine cost as much as three of my major players but... aftet seeing the safety habits practiced (or not practiced would be a better term).. it would definitely be a fine addition to the shop for those if they can afford it. And frankly.. it is an excellent stand alone saw without the brake. There can be no denial of that.

   It's just not for me as I personally can't see the justification in difference of price in my own situation..

   Regards...

   Sarge..

   Edited 5/5/2009 10:54 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

5. 
   PeterThomson | May 05, 2009 10:31pm | #7

   I rigged up a "poor man's Excalibur" and hooked it to my DC.  Basically a H-beam made from MDF that's cantilevered out from the wall with DC hose strapped to it.  Bit of rigging and jigging off the end to support a blade guard.  Works great but "half kerf" jointing cuts like Zolton described are still a bit messy.  I'll probably hack up the brush off a snow scraper and attach it to the front of the blade guard to catch dust/bits that are ejected with too much speed to get sucked up.  Even though it's imperfect, it's a huge improvement compared to just DC from below the blade--especially when cutting MDF, melamine PB, etc.

   P

6. 
   Dorsett | May 05, 2009 11:33pm | #8

   I own a Shark Guard, with a 4" port. Next time I'll go with the 6" port.

   Works well, but like others it doesn't collect everything.

   I use it on a contractors saw, so even with a second hose from the bottom, some saw dust ends up on the floor/in the air.

   When I remove it for certain cuts I quickly realize how much it collects. Definitely worth the investment.

1. 
   Domer | May 06, 2009 12:13am | #9

   My blade guard is attached to the riving knife as well. It works
   pretty well when cutting thinner pieces of wood. When the wood is
   thicker, it gives an opening for the dust to spray out. Still it collects dust a lot better than not having the blade guard on.Domer

7. 
   Jfrostjr | May 06, 2009 04:18pm | #12

   I have a Shark Guard installed on my Unisaw. I collect both from bottom port of the saw plus the top Shark Guard hose.

   It appears that I get "all" of the dust except at the very end of a cut: the wood holds up the guard, even after it has traveled past the blade. It is at this moment that some dust spits forward under the front edge of the guard. Not much.

   Frosty

   "I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922