Hello,
I’m planning on making kitchen cabinets, so there are lots of doors. I’d like to purchase panel raising bits for my router. I’ve noticed there are vertical bits and huge horizontal panel raising bits. I’m told the vertical bits are safer to use. Any insights would be appreciated.
Replies
The "right" bit depends on your router's capabilities. If it has sufficient sustained hp and speed control, then a horizontal router bit will work well. If not, then you can consider a vertical bit and a tall auxillary fence to stabilize the work pieces. If you are also using a rail and stile cutter set, you need a solid work surface, miter or sled with hold downs to get a smooth, consistent cuts on the rails. Which ever system you use, I would suggest that but really good qualify cutters.
Doug
Edited 2/17/2005 11:00 am ET by Doug
If you like the look of raised panels but do not have to have an ogee or cove profile, then the panels can be raised quickly on the tablesaw.Most panels I've seen are done this way.I like the look better than an ogee or cove .
Try a scrap and see if you like it. Square a piece of pine or any scrap wood .Make sure it is dead square. Set the fence at 1 3/4" from the outside of the blade, set the blade height 1/8" . Saw the cross grain first ,all the way thru, turn 90° and saw with the grain, repeat cross grain then long grain. You have scored the panel 1/8" deep ,all four sides.
Next step ,you are going to cut the bevel. Tilt the blade about 9 °,this arbitrary, exact tilt depends on the thickness of stock.Raise the blade to 1 11/16",just shy of the score marks you originally cut.
You need a way to hold the panel in an upright position as you pass it thru the blade. I use a homemade jig that rides in the miter slot and is adjustable in and out.Delta makes one, got a mental block can't think of the correct name for it.Same as mine but fancier.Make sure you saw crossgrain first, flip do with the grain, flip again etc. This method takes care of any tearout ,if you did the cross grain last it would tearout.
If you want to try this and need more info ,email me.
mike
I have the Freud 3-bit set that i like alot. not the cheapest, but produces good results. it comes in a wood box with an alignment block, instruction sheet, and CD on how to use it.
I have the big 3.5 HP Milwaukie router mounted in a table. The PC 7518 will also work with this big horizontal bit. Take light cuts, turn the rpm's down to the lowest speed. Also, I'd have some experience using a router with other bits, so that one has a good "feel" on how a router behaves.
I own some of both styles of bits. I prefer the horizontal. The vertical bits contact the surface with the entire cutting edge. This takes more power. Unless you are using a horizontally mounted router, holding the door upright on a fence is challenging. It wants to rock even with a tall fence and feather boards. You also have to keep tight to the table or the depth of the profile will be affected.
The horizontal bits still take power and a large throat plate. Because they contact the work in a sheer fashion, tip first, they seem to give me a better and more controllable cut. I have also seen many more patterns available in this style. For me, it is easier to press the work tight to a table while feeding. You can also use a power feeder more effectively with the horizontal style.
Both bits take a big bite. You have to advance them in small increments, taking multiple cuts to get to the full profile. A shaper is a better choice for production work.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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