Recently the draw knife, spokeshave and carving axe have been oft in my hand, as I have added green woodworking to my WW panoply.
The correct profile and sharpening of spokeshave blades, axes, lathe chisels and wood carving chisels does not seem to be in dispute. However, each green woodworker I talk to has a different opinion on how a draw knife should be bevelled.
Some say that one side should be flat with a 25 degree bevel on the other side. The flat side cuts deep, for rapid stock removal; the bevel side cuts shallow for finer work. This is what I currently do, not least since my Ray Iles draw knife came with this profile and honed razor sharp.
Others say that a different bevel on each side of the draw knife is better. Degrees are not give – rather they show you their draw knife so-ground. In essence, one side (the shallower bevel I presume) cuts more aggresively than the other bevel, but both offer more control of the cut than a flat blade.
Some say a straight blade is the best all-rounder. Others recommend a slight covex curve across the length of the blade. Some say that a shallow curve of the whole blade itself iss a good thing (in the French style).
Are there any experienced draw knife users out there who have wisdom, preferably including a bit of technical detail about bevel angles and whatever other blade configurations they recommend? Is it a good thing to have more than one draw knife, with different grindings for significantly different tasks? (I have one variation myself: an inshave, which is a curved-up draw knife for hollowing out chair seats).
Thanks in anticipation.