Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 13, 2008 06:22pm | #1

   I like 320 grit for sanding between coats.  Open coat paper is better than the closed coat wet/dry sand paper, but more than a very occasional lump indicates that the shellac isn't fully dry.  If it has more than an hour to dry, it may signal a problem with the shellac being over age.  You shouldn't need a lubricant for sanding between coats. 

   With shellac, sanding between coats is only needed to remove imperfections, unlike the case with varnish, it is not needed to improve adhesion.  Shellac "coats" melt together quite well.

   When I am approaching the film thickness that I want, I make sure the sanding has done all the leveling and defect removal that is needed and then apply the final coat.  When that has dried, I use the finest paper that will remove any defects that have appeared (usually 600 grit).  How far you progress from that depends on what sheen you want to end up with.  If I am going to gloss I sand to about 1200 or 1500 and then switch directly to rottenstone on a felt pad (polishing compound is the modern equivalent).  If going to a satin finish I use fine pumice instead.     

2. 
   saschafer | Jan 13, 2008 06:41pm | #2

   Shellac is about as boogery as it gets. An open-coat, stearated sanding paper (I use 3M Fre-Cut) helps a lot, although it doesn't eliminate the problem entirely. Like the other Steve, I use P320 grit. Peter Gedrys suggested sandarac resin as something that you can add to your shellac formula to improve sandability, but I haven't tried it yet.

   -Steve

    

3. 
   furndr | Jan 14, 2008 01:41am | #3

   Quickstep,

   It's hard to say why your shellac is clogging the paper - could be old shellac, high humidity, cold weather, etc.

   When I have this problem I use 0000 steel wool instead of abrasive paper. That usually solves the problem with clogging. After I get out the nibs I have found that a liberal coat of Zinzer Seal Coat works wonders. This stuff sands like a dream! 

   You can then leave the Seal Coat on as a final finish or top-coat over it with varnish, lacquer, etc.

   After using one can of Seal Coat you'll never be without  it in your shop! It's fantastic!!

   Dan

1. 
   Quickstep | Jan 14, 2008 02:27am | #4

   Seal Coat is what I'm using. I didn't seem to have any detrimental effects from the sanding issues and now have my third (and probably final) coat on. My next step is to steel wool.

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 14, 2008 04:42am | #6

   quickstep,Waxed shellac is slightly easier to sand than de-waxed, but shellac of all types is one of the easiest finishes to level and rub out.If shellac doesn't sand to a fine, loose, non-clogging, dry powder, it's not dry. (No sanding boogers.)If it doesn't get to that state in 24 hours, certainly 48 hours, there is something seriously wrong with the shellac preparation. It has "gone bad," esterified as flakes or in the mixture, or there was water in the alcohol solution, and will never properly harden.Rich

   Edited 1/13/2008 8:44 pm ET by Rich14

4. 
   9michael9 | Jan 14, 2008 02:30am | #5

   four 0 steel wool

5. 
   RichardZ | Jan 14, 2008 02:21pm | #7

   Hi,

   Hope you dont mind my piggybacking on to this subject.

   I am finishing a framed mirror of white oak and into my third coat of amber shellac, using a brush. So far so good. Is it recommended to use just shellac as my final finish coat or should I use some other finish as my final coat?

   Richard

    

1. 
   frenchy | Jan 14, 2008 02:43pm | #8

   Richard,

    You're done.. Shellac is the finest finish there is .. the king of finishes.

     You wouldn't touch up the Mona Lisa with crayons would you?

    In my Humble opinion ;-)

6. 
   blewcrowe | Jan 25, 2008 05:23pm | #9

   My guess is your shellac is old. Once that stuff gets a few months on it it doesn't cure as well as when it's fresh.