The balusters for my planned staircase are 1×4 hardwood, and will be painted. Every other one has a “keyhole” decorative detail. Centered up near the top of the board, a 1-1/4″ dia. through hole has a “tail,” a slot 1/4″ wide by a couple inches long, with a full radius end. I have a drill press, routers with template collars in various sizes, and a jigsaw. What is the best setup for production-machining these? I’ve about 25 to make.
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Replies
The simplest way is to make a pattern that can be used with your (plunge) router and collar setup. Design it to use a 1/4" bit as that is the width of the tail of the design. If you do it right the pattern will have two side guides that will slide snugly around the two sides of the baluster, register at the top of the baluster and can be held in place with one or two clamps. Both the diameter of the through-hole and the width of the tail slot will be determined by the outside diameter of the collar. It takes a while to get the pattern correct, but once set up, it is very fast.
SawdustSteve
And shall I use a spiral bit? If so, upcut or downcut? I don't want any tearout when coming up or going through. Should I place a fresh piece of sacrificial backer each time I cut one?
Sacraficial board... DEFINITELY As for the bit, any three woodworkers will give you four different answers. It depends on the wood, the grain of the wood, the way the wood-gods feel that day... Try using a nice new streight carbide bit. You're not going to make THAT many pieces. Just feed the cutter slowly and take a series of SHALLOW cuts. Don't try to do the whole job in one pass.
SawdustSteve
Eagle America (I think) has spiral bits which combine upcut on the tip and downcut on the upper portion. They are designed to minimize tearout on through cuts.
--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
MLCS (or MCLS, I can never remember) has these as well. Great mail order house; no shipping charges. bits are inexpensive, and of pretty good quality.
Mr Micro:
As a suggestion, I advise to raise the routing fixture about 1/4" above the surface of the work piece.
I use this system to cut mortises with the plunge router.
The space allows the chips to be blown clear of the template slots.Saves the time required to stop and clean out the clogged guide slots in the routing fixture.
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