I am going to build a built-in sort of like the one featured in FWW several issues ago. The design calls for attaching solid wood framing to the plywood casing using 1/8 inch hardwood splines matched to grooves in the hardwood and plywood sides.
I am trying to determine the best way to go about making the grooves. If I use the TS to make the groove along the 3/4″ surface I have to modify my fence with a piece of plywood to maintain stability of the worpiece as it is run on edge through the saw.
Should I be concerned about kickback with this technique?
I was thinking of getting a slot cutter to put on a router and just cutting the grooves that way.
Maybe the easy way out of all of this is forget the grooves idea and just attach the face framing with biscuits but I am not sure if that will work or not.
Any suggestions? I am looking for what would be the commonly accepted approach to this task so I do it the right way. Thanks, Tom
Replies
Tom,
Depending on whether or not you will see the sides, you should really consider using pocket screws. I know that many on this forum may cringe at this, but I use them in cabnetry all the time, and they have proven to be faster and less hastle than biscuits for me.
If you are still interested in the splines, I would definately recommend a slot cutter in the router over the tablesaw, I think you'll be happier with the results.
Good luck
Tom,
I'll share with you how I did do this one time...but I'm not sure it's the right way. I have a squared up piece of lumber that is about 4" x 7" x 42". I attach that to the ply with wood clamps and then push the ply up against the TS fense...and push it through the saw blade. As you can see the lumber acts as a big featherboard...and the clamps are above the TS Fense level so there is no interference.
You could also do a tounge & groove using a rabbetting bit/dado on the ply, and 1/4" groove on the FF stock.
Tom ,
The router with a slot cutter for the edge of the plywood side , would produce a more even cut , you also could add a small fence to your router base and do the face frame back side. Also you could simply glue and clamp the face to the plywood sides , with no splines or biscuits , I have never had one fail by gluing and clamping . This allows you to leave the face a bit over and trim to the ply with a flush trimmer , then sand . this can be a lot more forgiving and allow less chance for problems .
good luck dusty
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I like the router idea just because I feel uneasy turning a foot wide 7 foot length of plywood on its side and running through the table saw with the potential for kickback. Am I being paranoid?
Tom,
Most kickbacks seem to occur when material drifts into the blade or binds between the blade and fence . With the blade only 1/2" high and little to bind , this cut on the saw is not that dangerous but more difficult to hold down and against the fence and push forward all at the same time . A router can produce a more even slot with less waver in the cut .With a helper to hold the material you can do it on the TS.
good luck dusty
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