Replies

1. 
   Norse | Mar 10, 2004 01:55am | #1

   I've used Abatron with good results, drill some holes to allow it to penatrate. However, I don't know if its any different to West sys.

   http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm

2. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 10, 2004 05:42am | #2

   Silver,so long as the doors will be painted, I reccomend using 'Dutchmen"  (No! not Amish wood workers )

   Carefully choose wood of the same type for the patches.

   Using your router, (Handheld) and the appropiate  square or rectangular four sided open template, (Shaped like a thin picture frame ) rout out the damaged area  wide and deep enough to remove all rotted material.

   Note: the minimum north/south/east/west dimentions should be 2-3/4" wider than the proposed lenght/width of the 'Dutchman'

    Use a 1/2" straight  bit with a 6" base router and rout deep enough to remove all  the damage.

   Cut rectangular or square blocks to snugly fit the hollows.

   Before gluing, round off the four radiouses (RADII?)to fit

   (I first saw off some of each corner, then with a belt sander, radious the four corners.)

   These blocks should be a bit thicker than the hollow so as to stand 'Proud'after glue up.

    When glue has set, use two rails of the same thickness (Called 'Riding the rails') laid close to the patch, and lower the router bit in increments to shave' off the projecting wood to level it with the surface .

   I've restored many old doors this way and they look great even today.

   Ive occasionally installed dutchmen over or across a previous patch for odd shaped areas of damage.  I f patching wood to be stained or naturally finished, orient the grain configurations to resemble the existing wood's grain.  Stein

   
   

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   Edited 3/9/2004 9:55:12 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jackplane | Mar 10, 2004 06:00pm | #3

   If it's joint failure, I'd replace the rail. Depending on the severity of the joint failure, a dutchman could do this, as stein said.  If it's cosmetic damage, I'd stick with bondo- very strong and will hold screws well and easily paintable.

   Edited 3/10/2004 10:03 am ET by JACKPLANE

3. 
   Pnut | Mar 10, 2004 10:04pm | #4

   I've previously done a historic restoration and I'm now on my third year restoring my own home (from foundation to chimneys)...In a "historic" restoration, it is important to keep as much of the original as possible  (See the "Secretary of the Interior's Guidelines for  Historic Restoration/Rehabilitation" if you are interested).  Assuming this is going to be painted, the "best" system that I have used is by Smith & Company.  I would suggest doing the following:

   1. Removing all "punky" wood that will come off with scraping/wire brush.
   2. Soak the area with as much "Smith and Company" Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) as the wood will hold.
   3. Fill voids with Smith and Company "Fill-it" 2 part epoxy.   If there are large voids you may wish to use some wood that has been soaked in the CPES and THEN cover with the epoxy...the epoxy is expensive.
   4. Sand the "Fill-it" epoxy to shape (This product sands very well and when it placed over the CPES, it has great strength.   The product doesn't shrink when drying)
   5. Re-coat with CPES
   6. Prime with oil base
   7. Re-paint.

   I've used these products with great success and have received good advice from the manufacturer.  It is not cheap, but it does exactly what they claim it will do.  In case it isn't obvious, I'm a big fan.  Restore and preserve where possible.

   Good luck with your project.

   
   

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   Edited 3/10/2004 2:11 pm ET by PNUTIII

   
   

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   Edited 3/10/2004 2:12 pm ET by PNUTIII

1. 
   silver77 | Mar 13, 2004 06:22am | #5

   Thanks to all for the advice...right under my nose. I'm a low tech kind of guy and dutchmen appeal to me. Funny I didn't think of that but my head was into the best epoxy.

   White pine on white pine with marine glue or West system around the edges topped with bondo...right on!

   In another thread about ideas the consensus was that as thoughts on a "problem" are exchanged, we often see the obvious with new perspective.

   btw, last night was Router class and I passed on the rout and remove process to a class of keen router newbies including riding the rails. What goes around goes around.   

   cheers,

   silver