Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Nov 18, 2005 07:40pm | #1

   For a sliding compound miter saw, I believe you need a lower hook angle.  The LU85 (Ultimate Cutoff Blade) has a 10* hook angle.  It produces a fabulous surface.  I use it on end grain that will show, and it comes out polished to an amazing sheen.  That being said, I'm not sure it's your best choice in the Freud line for a sliding compound miter saw.  Lemme see if I can find my catalog.  I'll be back! :-)

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/18/2005 11:42 am by forestgirl

1. 
   user-54143 | Nov 18, 2005 11:19pm | #4

   Thanks for the suggestion, I actually called Freud and they said the same thing.  In essence their take is that the LU85 is their best blade for use on miter saws but when sliding with a SCMS the cutting dynamics are changed and the negative hook angle of the LU91 helps to (1) keep the stock in position against the table, and (2) reduce jerkiness during sliding cuts as the tendency for the blade to pull into the wood is reduced, the result slower but smoother sliding cuts.  Judging from the opinion of  Larry at Freud and other opinions I have found out in cyberspace (including those of Bobabeui) it seems that for smaller stock and plain CMS's the LU85 is probably the best blade out there (who knows about the new Forrest Miter Masters,  but with the LU85 at $120  V's the FMM at $250 I think the choice is probably an easy one, I doubt that the  FMM cuts are worth paying twice the price for given that total blade life is probably similar).

   Hopefully this will be useful info for others out there who are cutting wood for pleasure or profit, or perhaps are like me and are nearing the end of a largely solo effort to build a house (1 year to get permits, 1 year to get it liveable (final inspection), 6 months and counting to actually make it all look pretty, tile, trim, flooring etc)

   Cheers, Jade.

1. 
   forestgirl | Nov 19, 2005 08:05am | #5

   Glad you got to talk to Freud.  There's a Freud member here at Knots too, name is Charles M., not a salesperson but a technical person, so any time you have a question, you can address him in the title of your post.

   It's really important, IMHO, to keep "miter saws" and "sliding miter saws" in mind as two different machines.  I've never used a sliding saw, but from what I've seen and read it's obvious they handle very differently, and while most of the crosscut blades can cross over (ooooo, bad) from table saws to regular miter saws, it's apparent the sliding saws require a specific configuration for optimum safe performance.

   If anyone can find a blade that outperforms the LU85, I'd pay to see it!  Fat chance, and can't even imagine paying double the price for any blade.  Wow!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Nov 19, 2005 08:06am | #6

   PS:

   "nearing the end of a largely solo effort to build a house "  Wow!  That's great.  I visited one of our members down in the Vancouver, WA, area last month and saw the house he built over a period of years.  Boggled my mind!  You guys have vision!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   user-54143 | Nov 20, 2005 08:33am | #8

   Not sure is vision is the right word in my case, more like a case of biting off more than I could chew and then somehow gnawing my way through it.  Some builders I knew were going to help me, but once I actually started work on the project they made themselves scarce.  Also, my father ( a builder) came over from N.Z. to help me  when we were supposed to be getting permits but then the county screwed with us for the next 9 months and he ended up having to go home before we even dug the hole for the foundation.  He did come back again once it was all framed and we did the siding, metal roof, and deck together.

   Anyway now we are off the subject.  Thanks again for the advice.

2. 
   forestgirl | Nov 18, 2005 07:45pm | #2

   The Freud model recommended for sliding saws is the LU91.  In the 12" version it's a 72T blade, ATB, with a negative-5-degree hook.  The negative hook is what helps with "stability" IIRC.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   BOBABEUI | Nov 18, 2005 08:17pm | #3

   Jade-P,

   I have both the blades you mentioned, but they are in a Dewalt 12 inch CMS (not a slider).

   I would have to say the Freud LU85 has it all over the Chopmaster, much cleaner cut with less tearout, the cut is literly smooth like a babies behind. On the downside the LU85 really taxes the power of the saw, where the Chopmaster does not have such a problem, I use both to only cut mouldings nothing else.

   As ForestGirl suggested the LU85 might not be the proper blade for a SCMS

   PS: I love my Forrest Woodworker II on my tablesaw and the Forrest Dado King 

   Best of luck

4. 
   Elcoholic | Nov 19, 2005 11:44pm | #7

   I swear by the 100t FS Tools # LM6300 blade on my Makita LS1212 slider as well as the FS Tools blades on my TS.

   http://www.calwoodmach.com/tools/sawBlades.html

    

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC