Greetings, i am looking for recomendations for the best plywood blade for tablesaws.
My forrest WW2 is not perfect on the crosscut and i am looking for the absolute best specialty plywood blade.
thanks,
jeremiah
Greetings, i am looking for recomendations for the best plywood blade for tablesaws.
My forrest WW2 is not perfect on the crosscut and i am looking for the absolute best specialty plywood blade.
thanks,
jeremiah
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Replies
CMT makes a good one.
I talked at length awhile back with a woodworker who builds with high-quality veneered plywood, often very thin, and his choice was the Freud F810 (10"). It will also do an excellent job with melamines and laminates. Another Freud blade, the LU85R, will also do an excellent job, but has a suggested maximum thickness of 1". I own this blade, called the "Ultimate Cutoff" blade, and it does a remarkable job at crosscutting stock, leaving a mirror-smooth finish on the ends. I've limited experience with it cutting plywood and it's done a great job, but I'd probably get an 810 for alot of plywood work.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Here's another vote for the Freud LU85R. It's pretty much the only thing I use for cutting plywood. The only thing I've found even smoother for crosscutting solid stock is a 100 tooth 10" Systematic that I sometimes use in my miter saw.
I love the smell of sawdust in the morning.
You might consider doing a scoring cut first to really minimize tearout regardless of which blade you choose.
Steve
With the 2 Freud blades I listed, won't need a scoring cut.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
To elaborate on my earlier post, the F80 (810 or 812) has a HiATB tooth design with a 2* hook. Just noticed that the info in the big catalog indicates a 1/2" minimum stock thickness (up to 1-5/8" max).
the LU85R is standard ATB configuration (10* hook) but the sides are ground very, very close to the edge of the blade body, which is what polishes the wood so nicely during a cross-cut. This blade is indicated for down to 1/4" thick wood, and up to 1-5/8". I've used it on 1/8" plywood with good results, but not perfect.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
thanks for the responses, i ended up oredering the forrest plyood hi a/t. i like my other forrests.. so what the heck.
thanks
I have the WWI & WWII. I would be interested in your evaluation of the Hi-At after you use it. I like the cuts I have been getting from the WWI in ply. Let us know how it compares.
Let us know how you like it!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
will do. it will be a week or so.
ok, i made my first cuts with the forrest hi a-t in a sapele plywood. I am very pleased. I dont have any other plywood blades, but compared to the ww2 the cuts in ply are amazing.
Top of ply is 100% clean and the bottom is about as good as the ww2 was on top.
j
Thanks for sharring. I have been debating getting the blade. I love my WWI & WWII. I also love the dado king. I have yet to hear the words Forrest & junk in the same sentence. Enjoy!
That's great, Turn, thanks for letting us know. Nosy Parker here: How much$ did the blade run??forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
over 100 or 120 sorry i dont remember for sure.. it was paid for with some other items so i only remember the total..
bye.
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