Replies

1. 
   RW | Jun 21, 2009 06:56am | #1

   I don't think there's an overall best for every application. Some things might only adhere with epoxy, for instance.

   Runners up, though. Tightbond cold press is a PVA that works well for flat work (in a bag or veneer press). It can also be used, in a bag, to coax small curves into shape, like veneering a cove or a radius. The moisture actually helps in that scenario. Very good is Unibond, and it offers a rigid glue line, can be made to cure faster with heat, and is a winner with bent laminations or anything where the work absolutely positively cannot move. I tend to use Unibond for almost everything that I vaccuum bag. DAP Weldwood is a plastic resin that works similarly to Unibond.

   Hot hide glue is great for hand work or any time you want to seam in place, piece by piece, as you progress.

   Contact cement is lousy, and a last resort. If you're using it, you ought to have at least a 2 ply veneer, better yet a backed variety like 10 mil paper or phenolic.

   Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

1. 
   Ron01960 | Jun 22, 2009 07:22am | #2

   Please take the time to look at Bob's work. His sight explains the process quite well. He uses the hide glue method which you most likely may not opt for but its still veneer.ttp://http://www.americanfederalperiod.com/Another fine video is Roy Underhill, on North Carolina Public TV.
   Its about 8 and nine programs from the top.Sit back and enjoy!Ron

2. 
   mike4244 | Jun 24, 2009 03:34am | #3

   I have done some veneering so check out what I post with people more learned than I. For one thing ,if you are going to veneer on a plywood substrate, the grain runs perpendicular to the plywood grain. You can get crazing and bubbles if you veneer parallel to the plywood grain. I have cut my own veneer as well as bought some.

   I try to get a thickness of 3/32" .I joint or plane one side, rip on the bandsaw to 3/32". I use hot hide glue,often I will glue up the substrate,let it cool. Then apply the veneer ,heat with a heatgun and roll with a veneer roller.I work from the center out to the edges.Make sure the sawn side is up and  the jointed side gets the glue. When the glue up is done and the work has cooled, you can work the sawn face with handtools.DO NOT run the board thru the planer,use hand tools only or sanders if you desire.I don't sand until the end,sometimes never. I start with a smoother and then card scrapers, sometimes 220 paper.

   One other thing that I am not well versed on but you say your wood is highly figured. This may have a tendency to curl. There are ways to deal with this, I don't know enough to help you here. Do a search for veneering websites and you will get good info.

   mike

1. 
   ausie | Jun 24, 2009 08:51am | #4

   Mike,

   thanks for the advice I'll give the hide glue a try, having never considered using it before my next challenge will be to source it here in Australia.

   I did a small experiment using a polyurethane glue, & although I applied it rather sparingly, the glue leached through the veneer. Even after some heavy treatment with a cabinet scrapper I couldn't completely shift it & it was quite evident.

   Thanks again

   Simon

1. 
   mike4244 | Jun 24, 2009 09:39pm | #5

   Simon, a very good electric gluepot for hide glue can be a small crockpot. I bought one new for $10.00 and a candy thermometer so I can check the temperature. Lot cheaper than $99.00 for an electric crockpot. I heat water in the pot that surrounds a glass jar ,the jar contains the hide glue.Weight the jar down or it will float.

   mike

3. 
   DonStephan | Jun 25, 2009 02:44am | #6

   My preference is also urea formaldehyde glue.  Unibond is one example, I suspect Plastic Weldwood is another.  Some like Unibond come as a liquid resin and a powder catalyst to be carefully mixed in the specied ration.  Others come as a powder to which water is added.  Decent working time, 3-4 hours clamping time with a minimum temp of 70 deg F.  Most if not all can be tinted with water based analine dyes, but check with specific manufacturer to be sure.   I've found medium density fiberboard (sawdust and liquid resin pressed into sheet) to be flatter than even high quality baltic birch plywood.

   Just my two cents.