Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Dec 29, 2006 09:38pm | #1

   Frank,

   The fault, as you've discovered, is not with the blades but with the positioning of the head assembly. 

   The position of the head is controlled by a pair of screws, one on either side of the machine.  The two screws are synchronized with each other so that they turn in tandem and keep the head parallel with the machine's table as the head moves up and down.  For various reasons, the screws can get out of synch throwing off the machine's alignment.

   Given the age of your machine, it is quite possible that the screws themselves, or the threaded sleeves in the head they run through, are worn out.  It is also possible that parts of the chain or gear drive that connects the screws are worn to the point that the screws are slipping out of synchronization.  If this is the case, you will have to replace the worn components before you can correct the alignment of the head.  As a practical matter, replacing the parts may not be cost effective on that old of a machine and you will have to retire it.

   If parts aren't worn out, the following instructions explain how to bring the head back into alignment.  I can't go into detail for your machine, but the process is about the same on almost any benchtop planer.  With luck, the machine's manual will have a detailed description of the procedure specific to your machine.  It can be tedious, but you can get a download of a manual for your machine through the Delta website. 

   	To adjust the alignment of the head, you need to unhook the two screws from each other so that you can turn just one of the screws to move one side of the head up and down slightly to get the head again parallel to the table.  Before unhooking the drive adjust the head so that it is 2 to 3 inches above the table. On most machines the two screws are hooked together by a chain drive, but occasionally a small geared shaft is used.  On the majority of machines the drive mechanism is under the base table.  If you flip the machine over, you can get at the drive mechanism and unhook the chain or drive shaft, usually you have to remove a sheet metal cover to get at the parts.  On a few machines the connection between the two screws is on top of the machine, in which case you can get at the drive by removing the tin or plastic cover that connects the two sides of the planer. With the screw connecting drive unhooked, you can now turn the crank and move just one side of the head up and down slightly.  Make a wood block with a screw sticking up out of it and adjust the screw so it just touches the smooth cylindrical part of the cutter head at the end that isn't being moved when you turn the crank.  Now move the block to the other end of the head and move the head up and down with the crank until the screw again just touches the head. At this point the head will be parallel to the table, but go back and forth a few times with the block to be sure the setting is right. Once you are sure of the setting, reconnect the drive, without moving the drive screws any more than the minimum necessary to reattach the chain, or mesh the gears, and you are back in business. John White

      

2. 
   CapeCodFrank | Dec 30, 2006 12:40am | #2

   John,

    

   Thanks for your clear and rapid response.  The manual I have makes no mention of adjusting the cutterhead allignment, but looking at the exploded diagram I see how it works.  I'll give it a try.  In the meantime, I made a new table of MDF that sits on the planer bed.  I shimmed the table about 1/16" on one side to compensate for the mis-alignment, and the results are much better.  Not the right solution, but it worked.  In any case, I'll attempt the procedure you outlined.