I am putting up a couple of very light weight walls in my basement, in order to corner off a segment that i can use for my shop and keep the dust out of the rest of the house. I expect the set up to be temporary as we’ll probably finish the basement 3 years down the road and i’ll get kicked out to some other place. so i’m looking for the best method for attach the 2×4’s (which will form the bottom of the walls) to the concrete slab that will allow me to easily remove them in a few yeas. i’d also like to try and avoid using any type of messy glue. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. thanks, tony.
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Replies
You could use Tapcon screws. They will leave a hole but those shouldn't bother anything in the future. To use Tapcons, you pre-drill with a carbide tipped bit right through the bottom shoe into the floor. They sell a special sized bit along with a box of screws or separately. You just drive the screws after drilling. Their thread configuration needs no insert or sleeve. You won't need more than three screws in an eight foot length. Just back them out when you want to move the walls. Most hardware stores carry them, either hex head or flat.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
What about MIG gas? I am told it is mosty argon with some CO2. I have a MIG welder that I have had for some time.
Doesn't matter what kind of gas you use. You can't weld wood studs to a concrete floor.
Hey Eric, I think this post went to the wrong thread. Maybe the one on bloxygen substitutes?Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Right.
Don't ask me how it happened. I will try to find the thread and repost.
Tapcon screws...
Wonderful product.. My house is concrete block and have to use them all the time.
Only time I ever had a problem with them is if the bit gets old... Seems to cut a larger diameter hole...
metal studs - forget the wood. attach bottom rail with any concrete fastner, power activated nail, tapcon screws, plastic insert, with screws, tap in pins. metal studs do not require toenailing or wedging exact cut lengths between the upper and lower plate. That is one of the reason you seen them used in commercial building - the fast installation.
Drill thru plate and concrete with a rotohammer or hammerdrill. Use a 3/16" masonry bit. Drive a 16d nail in, it will be loose. The nail will keep the plate from moving, but it can be pulled out easily. If you want the plate to stay forever, cut a piece of tie wire and place in hole, drive 16d nail in hole alongside the wire.The nail holds as well as a tapcon.
mike
I second the 16 D nail. I've seen them work great for this kind of work. I learned it from a guy who did work making concrete forms on top of slabs. A small hammer drill and some 16s was all he needed.
Edited 2/5/2005 10:06 am ET by david
Be aware of your town's building codes. If you don't go through the proper proceedures you may have to tear walls down when it is time to sell.
Jim
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