Hello everyone, i am looking to buy my first bandsaw, how could i have lived without one this long? Anyway, i will be using it for mostly smaller household and woodworking projects. maybe a little resawing every now and then but nothing major and nothing thicker than a couple inches. i would be resawing laminations for making bows. the lams are no more than 2 inches wide. However i would be roughing out bowsI would like to get a 14″ saw and spend about up to 600 bucks or so. i have looked at the following saws, let me know what you think, or offer up another option, i am wide open to suggestions.
– “The Ultimate 14″ bandsaw” Grizzly
– Industrial 14″ bandsaw, Grizzly
– Extreme series 14″ bandsaw, Grizzly
– Shop Fox 14″ not sure of the model
-Jet?
-Others?
Are cast iron wheels, that much better than aluminum that the average user will notice a big difference? Do any of these saws offer the best “out of the box” performance? I know that every saw will require some tuning to get things running well. what i mean is, can any of these saws be run better than the others without add ons such as stabalizers, etc. Or do ALL saws run that much better when you start including the gizmos? thanks for your help.
Replies
I have been very impressed with my Laguna 16LT. Would recommend it to anyone
Gopher,
I use a Jet 14" open stand and it has served me well for just over 10 years of nearly everyday use. That use has been pretty extensive, since the bandsaw is the main power tool in my shop.
The only things I changed were the following:
The guide blocks to Cool Blocks ( just now on the second set, so they last a long time)
The tension spring, as the one that came with it was very poor. I use a Itrurra (spelling?) which has been excellent and was inexpensive
The belt, I went with the link type belt, but I'm not sure it was any better.
I added a shim under one wheel to bring them into the same plane.
All the bearings have been replaced, but this was easy to do and inexpensive. I don't release the tension when not in use, except for the month of December when I typically don't work.
I also added the Jet rip fence.
The only things I think could be better are:
The table tilting assembly; it is kind of flimsy, but I still get accurate cuts, so I guess it is good enough.
The adjustment screws for the guides; they have all stripped out. I first fixed them with Helicoils, but these too failed, so I bend some pieces of bar stock and threaded those, and that permanently solved the problem.
You didn't ask, but blade selection is important. I use Bi-Metal blades by Starrett. They are sold under the Powerband Matrix II name and are made for the metal cutting industry, yet they work great for wood. I don't use any blade over 3/8" wide. I have had my general purpose blade (.025" x 3/8" 8-12 pitch) last for about a year, of heavy cutting.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
I would second Samiams view of the Laguna. I have one, albeit a different model, and it is outstanding. Stable, little vibration and resaws like a charm. Give it your consideration!
davidah
Had A 14" saw but 2 years ago with a little help from my sons I got a Jet 18" and it gets a lot of use I find bigger is better.I also like the resaw blades from Highland Hdwre.
EdL
I have a 16" Laguna. It is a fine tool, but cost is a bit more than $600.
Good Luck.
Mr. Gopher,
If you have full online access to this great site you can look in Tool Guide > Machinery> Bandsaws and get some reasonable evaluations of some of the products available. Strengths and weakness are discussed.
A couple of other tips for you to check up on.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=29198
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=29458
Michael Fortune is a great designer, artist, craftsman and teacher. He knows bandsaws. He makes his living knowing bandsaws. He has contributed some fine articles on the tuning and use of bandsaws to FWW and other publications. (BTW, I have never met the man.)
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093
A properly tuned bandsaw is wonderful. The opposite is pure hell.
Do not assume the factory assembled the saw properly. Most of the stuff I had to adjust on mine wasn't even mentioned in the user guidebook.
My bandsaw has been a joy to use since following Michael's tune up tips.
Quality. Recently all of the threads on my tensioning rod galled up. I guess all of the lead that wasn't in the toy paint was in the steel used for my rod. I replaced it with a piece of ACME all thread and a crank. Works great.
On the other hand my wheels "appear" to be more substantial than those of two friends machines.
Blades are inexpensive but important. Buy quality blades and follow the manufacturers tensioning instructions.
http://www.woodworkershaven.com/
(Some good tips here as well)
Don't buy more blades than you will ever need. Start with 1/2" or 5/8" 3 TPI. Add finer cuts only as you need them.
Wheels. Unless you are in a production environment it probably doesn't matter - iron or aluminum, and even then it likely would not. You want a straight, balanced wheel, properly aligned in the frame. The bearings and tire are more of a concern. Even then, run them till they fail then replace with better quality after market. I have not seen any problems with basic components. I did put a kink in a blade and threw it out only because the I didn't like the thump thump thump I was getting. It was still cutting fine.
Don't get hung up on gizmo's until you have mastered what you have.
If you look at the basics it becomes clear that there are only so many manufacturing facilities for the low end products. Different paint and stickers is about all the difference.
Shop price and service. There have been a few posts commenting on after market service form some bigger manufacturers. On the off chance you get a lemon, you want a reputable supplier who will back you, not the manufacturer. Pay by credit card so you can take advantage of the extended warranty offer buy them. This can add a year of coverage to most manufacturers warranty's.
If you can get a 4" dust port on the bottom end great, if not, be prepared to add one.
You can do very well with a $600.00 solution. Just take your time and learn to feel the machine and understand/adjust blade tracking (#1).
Pretty windy response.
Don
Edited 3/8/2008 1:06 am ET by Don01
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