Replies

1. 
   user-17340 | May 14, 2003 01:53pm | #1

   Go to http://www.oldwwmachines.com, there is an article about rebuilding a band saw. Just for the fun of it, how much did you pay for that orange band saw ????

   Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec

1. 
   JSCW | May 15, 2003 08:30am | #3

   Didn't pay a thing.  A neighbor of mine just got done building a new guitar building shop ( he does amazing work) and the city inspector told him he needed to get the rusty beast out of his driveway. 

   Bummer for him, lucky for me.

   Jonathan

2. 
   jackiechan | May 15, 2003 08:12am | #2

   Jonathan,

   You've got a great old machine, with lots of potential.  The first thing you'll want to procure, if you don't already have it, is the original operating manual.  It will list all of the saw's different parts as well as their stock numbers.  The second step would be to disassemble the entire saw down to the last bolt.  This may seem like a daunting task, but a bandsaw is a fairly straightforward machine, and can easily be taken apart with a few screw drivers and a small set of box wrenches.  Before starting this procedure, open the upper and lower wheel doors, and spin the wheels clockwise by hand.  You're listening for any crunchy or gritty sounds from the bearings both on the wheels and on the motor.  Inspect the saw carefully and study exactly how it's put together.  Write things down or draw a picture if you need to.  Clear a workbench, and lay out (and label) each part as it's removed.  The objective is to remove and inspect each part for acceptable wear and tear and structural integrity.  Unless the saw has parts fused together from rust and corrosion, almost everything should be salvageable.  (Note: for ease of service, leave the lower guide assembly in place, and remove it only if damage is visible.)

   There are three things that should be thrown out and replaced without hesitation: the rubber drive belt, the tension spring, and the rubber tires.  All of these degrade over time, especially with extended periods of non-use.  The rubber parts will dry out and stiffen (I recommend link belts for a replacement), and the tension spring looses its resistance integrity, especially if the tension wasn't released after each use.  Call Iturra Design (888) 722-7078, they will have all of the replacement parts you could ever need for this saw.  They do not have a web site, so be sure to ask them to mail a catalog.  Louis Iturra (Owner) is always more than willing to get on the phone and talk you through any questions you may have. 

   With the parts removed, including the upper frame to the lower frame, clean each piece with a degreaser and/or mineral spirits.  Inspect mating surfaces for damage and/or burrs and smooth things over with a small mill file and wet/dry sandpaper using WD40 as a lubricant.  (Trivia: WD40 stands for Water Displacement - 40th test/trial.  The inventor was searching for a water displacing oil for machinery, and hit upon the correct formula on the 40th trial!)  If you find paint between mating surfaces, use a sharp utility razor and scrape it away.  It's not necessary, and only gets in the way of perfectly fitting parts.

   Lubricate all of the, now clean, moving parts with a dry stick lubricant (can be found at a good local hardware store).  The dry lube helps to prevent the build up of sawdust on moving parts.

   The outer shell of the saw may be rusty and ugly, but it will not prevent the unit from running smoothly - the table and fence surface is another story.  You can either have a machine shop grind the surfaces of the table and fence, or try you hand at an in-shop restoration.  The easiest way to do it yourself, is to get a stack of wet/dry sandpaper from and 80 grit to as high as you can find (easily found up to 2000 grit).  Using a flat piece of hardwood as a backer, and WD40 as a lubricant, scrub the table moving only forward and back in the direction of the wood travel.  Move through successive grits without skipping any, and with elbow grease, the table should shine better than new!

   This is a good place to start.  There are more details of calibrating and adjusting the thrust bearings and guide.

   Please feel free to send me any question(s) that you may have!

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   
   

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   Edited 5/15/2003 1:15:40 AM ET by Jackie Chan

   
   

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   Edited 5/15/2003 1:18:06 AM ET by Jackie Chan

1. 
   JSCW | May 15, 2003 08:35am | #4

   Dan

   Thanks so much for the info.  You make it sound like something I can actually do.

   Jonathan

1. 
   jackiechan | May 15, 2003 08:41am | #5

   Jonathan,

   You're welcome - let me know if you need any additional help. 

   Just a thought, if you are going to restore the outer metal skin, put a thick layer of blue painters tape over the name badge, and information plates to protect them.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

3. 
   Steinmetz | May 16, 2003 01:46am | #6

   Thank God the table and fence was spared the coat of iron oxide..

   I would tackle the rusted stuff first, Any 'stuck' bolts/set screws/collars/clamps and threaded fasteners should be soaked with RUSTBUSTER, or LIQUID WRENCH 

   Don't try to force any stubborn stuck fasteners at first. A little 'shock' treatment with a brass hammer can create a tiny space for more Rust Buster to penetrate.

    Do this a few times a day if neccesasary and shock + solvent shock + solvent etc Once fasteners start to turn, squirt more and retighten to push solvent back up the threads  

    Squirt/turn/back up/squirt/ turn etc. Patience is your friend. Occasionally a really stubborn bolt will respond to gentle heating around the hole and more solvent.

   This is messy,so dress for the occasion and round up lots of rags and tight containers for oily ragsn             

   The rest of the machine should be dismantled in order to Degrease/wire brush, and polish away rust with medium emery cloth and kerosine. 

   Check all bushings and roller bearings for excessive wear or regreasing or replace ment. The Blade guides and roller bearings under the table ar notoriously stubborn and prone to breakage.  (Their castings are 'white metal)

   The tires on both wheels are replacable if hardened or cracked.(Woodworker's Supply)

   After reassembaly (As Norm would say,)  fine tune the belt adjustment/blade centering adjustment and oil the moter's bearings.

    Note Iif motor has absorbed water from out door storage, DON'T START IT!!!  Keep it indoors and blow dry it often.   Lastly put a coat of past wax on all exposed metal to show off your new friend to your old friends.

1. 
   JSCW | May 16, 2003 07:32am | #7

   steinmetz

   Thanks

   Jonathan

1. 
   Steinmetz | May 16, 2003 04:52pm | #8

   Jonathan, I hope I did'nt overwhelm you with instructions and details for breathing new life into your bandsaw. I know some tried to talk you out of it, but nothing is more gratifying than having made a home for an 'orphaned' useful powertool.

   Over the years, I have 'rescued' Three Atlas Metal lathes, one Atlas Metal cutting (also wood)bandsaw ,one Buffalo drillpress. one Craftman 10" contractors table saw one Craftman radial arm saw and scores of other machines that prooved to be loyal friends and payed dividends to boot.

   If at first you find this difficult, take a break and later you'll be drawn back to the task with renewed fervor. If you need help,finding a part or even making a part don't hesitate to ask me or any'Knots Forum guys.  I will eagerly await your post when you proudly exhibit the fruits of your labor of love.ED

1. 
   heffesan | May 17, 2003 06:43am | #9

   sounds like you have a good project ahead of you.

   i had a friend gift me a 18" Oliver bandsaw #192. They are still in business and still make this saw ( vintage 1922-23)

   i'm slowly working on this beast ( over 6 years off and on ). i love the old castings, but time and technology have made progress, so i'm adding new Carter guides.

   i briefly considered dropping $500 on a 3/4 hp a/c variable speed induction motor. right now the blade speed is way too fast; and it would be nice to pop on a metal cutting blade. now i going to side mount the motor (currently direct connected) and bring the speed down to 800-1200 rpm.

   keep posting on how your project goes.

4. 
   DaveHeinlein | May 18, 2003 04:06pm | #10

   Judging by your photos, I would place the date of mfg. a bit closer to the 30' or 40's, but you would need to find a serial #, and call Delta. They can give you the mo./yr. of mfg. The machines from the 50's on up have spoked wheels, and the Delta logo id entirely different.

1. 
   JSCW | May 19, 2003 09:37am | #11

   DAVEHEINLEIN,

   Thanks, your right.  I've done some research since I originally posted, and I'm fairly certain it's a model 890, circa late 30's.  Unfortunately, there is no serial number, but the name plate is really what helped me identify the model number.  I have an 890 manual and parts list on the way from Delta, and hopefully that will help me determine for certain what I have. 

   Jonathan

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | May 19, 2003 01:33pm | #12

   Have you been to the site owwm.com yet? You will find quite a 'society' of Delta nuts there who can help you in your restoration. There's quite a bit of information about old ww machinery there.

1. 
   JSCW | May 20, 2003 12:47am | #13

   Yes, I've been there.  Great site, Lot's of useful info.

   It was because of the photos they have posted that I was able to determine the model # for this saw.

   Jonathan